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Ignition problem on a D10

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Darrell Roberts View Drop Down
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    Posted: 04 Aug 2011 at 8:55am
I need a little help with what I believe to be an ignition problem. I've had some intermittent problems with my D10 just shutting down like you turn the key off. After about 15-20 minutes it will start back up and run fine, doesn't seem to be getting any spark while it is acting up. When I redid the tractor about 3 years ago I had Steve at B&B make a complete new wiring harness for the tractor so I'm pretty sure all the wiring is good and installed a new voltage regulator at that time. I've also put on a new coil, points and condensor and the problem persists. Also, someone told be it could be a vapor locking issue, which does kinda make sense as it seems to do it more often when it's hot, but I rerouted the gasline to get it away from the block and also loosened the gas cap, all of which do not seem to help. Seems like there's plenty of fuel getting to the carb, which brings me back the the ignition therory. Anyone else have any ideas or suggestions? Like to take the tractor to a local show this weekend but don't want to have it acting up. Thanks,Darrell
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Brian F(IL) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian F(IL) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2011 at 9:17am

My CA had some similar symptoms.  Turned out to be a faulty ignition switch in the ammeter guage/light switch box.  You may want to check that area for loose connections and/or possibly the need for a new switch.  FWIW

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Burgie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Burgie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2011 at 9:20am
See if the coil is wired right.
"Burgie"
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Darrell Roberts View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Darrell Roberts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2011 at 9:40am
Thanks Brian, I'll check all the connections back there.   Burgie, coil is wired the same as the old one. If the terminals were reversed wouldn't it not run and charge if it was backwards?
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Burgie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Burgie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2011 at 9:49am
I had that problem with my CA. The last coil had how to hook it up and the wires were reversed on the coil that was on it. Changed the wires around and no more problems.
If the ground on the tractor is neg, the neg post on the coil goes to the dist.
"Burgie"
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2011 at 10:00am
It ought to run OK with the coil reversed, but not as good.

Does it make full power while it runs? Still could be fuel starvation from the screen in the carburetor inlet adapter or a sticking float needle valve.

Could be a wide point gap that isn't quite closing long enough when its warm. Could be a bad coil. Could be the flex wire from the point plate to the outside of the distributor. Could be a rotor or cap with carbon tracks.

You can check for ignition with a spare plug. Connect it to the coil center and tie the shell to ground. Then crank the engine looking for a blue spark. You don't have to use the plug, there should be more than a quarter inch of blue spark from the plug wire, but its hard to hold a consistent gap and run the starter too. Then another test is to turn the engine until the points are closed, and open them with a screwdriver and there must be a spark every time the points open or the engine won't run good. It is possible to get shocked by these tests if you aren't careful how you handle that coil wire. Then you hook coil back to the distributor with cap and rotor in place and check for a spark on a plug wire in air while cranking with the starter. All the parts have to work right to get ignition.

10 to 15 minutes running time is consistent with a failing coil heating up and taking that long to cool down. You have a 12 volt coil 6 volt coil with resistor? Also not far out for a failing condenser or gas gap not venting.

When it starts to croak, pull on the choke. If its fuel starvation, that will revive it for a short time. Check that inlet screen.

Gerald J.
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Darrell Roberts View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Darrell Roberts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2011 at 10:39am
Thanks Bergie, I'll check that out.
Gerald, thanks for the suggestions, I'll take a look at the points and condenser again when I check out the terminals on the coil. I don't think it's a bad coil heating up, even if it is new, I know you can sometimes get a bad one, but I switched coils off of another tractor that has never had issues and it did the same thing. Also I'm not 100% certain about the fuel issue but when it does it, it's like you shut the key off, no time to pull the choke and there's plenty of fuel in the bowl when I check it. Has full power, doesn't dog down or anything like it's starved for fuel. I'm still leaning toward ignition. I checked the switch and all the connections behind the dash, all seems good. This is a 12 volt system BTW.
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Matt MN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Matt MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2011 at 10:53am
I would vote for either a loose terminal somewhere, or a faulty Ignition switch, coil, or condensor.

So, next time it dies check to see it you have spark. coils and condensors are effected by heat one of them maybe getting heated up.
Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!!
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Darrell Roberts View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Darrell Roberts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2011 at 12:48pm
Just wanted to give everyone an update and I hope I don't jinx myself but the tractor is sitting in the shop and  has been running about 30 minutes now without problems. I went back to the basics and since I was pretty certain that it was not a fuel issue concentrated on ignition. Put in new points and condensor again, set the gap and it fired right up, thought I had the problem licked...started puting away tools when it just up and died again just to wipe that smug expression right off my face. Taking a good hard look at the coil, connections correct, but seemed to be a little hotter than it should be, so I had a spare coil laying around and decided to change it out and see if that made a diffrence. Well, that seems to have cured it, at least so far. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Haven't had much time this summer to play with the tractors much so I guess I'm just a bit rusty...lol.
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