180 Roosa Master Injector Pump ?

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   My 180 has a Roosa Master injector pump. It is leaking diesel when you pull the fuel cut-off cable out to start. It is leaking around the bell crank shaft that goes into the pump for the fuel cut-off. I know it is a seal or o-ring has failed. My question is can I service the seal on the tractor or should I take it to a diesel service shop and have it gone through? 
It doesn't have a safety wire on any bolt and I have only had it a few months. It also seems to change RPM's without moving the throttle lever (mostly runs up like it wants to runaway). Is the governor inside the pump or external? It is also hard to start (fair weather, no heat or ether). Cold be low compression, unknown hours. Could need reworked? Opinions?

Thanks!
CT

	This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
	The Forum	Parts and Services	Unofficial Allis Store	Tractor Shows	Serial Numbers	History

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
nsula_country Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Location: NW Louisiana Points: 218	Post Options Post Reply Quote nsula_country Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 180 Roosa Master Injector Pump ? Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 11:16pm
	My 180 has a Roosa Master injector pump. It is leaking diesel when you pull the fuel cut-off cable out to start. It is leaking around the bell crank shaft that goes into the pump for the fuel cut-off. I know it is a seal or o-ring has failed. My question is can I service the seal on the tractor or should I take it to a diesel service shop and have it gone through? It doesn't have a safety wire on any bolt and I have only had it a few months. It also seems to change RPM's without moving the throttle lever (mostly runs up like it wants to runaway). Is the governor inside the pump or external? It is also hard to start (fair weather, no heat or ether). Cold be low compression, unknown hours. Could need reworked? Opinions? Thanks! CT

Sponsored Links

Orange Blood Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053	Post Options Post Reply Quote Orange Blood Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 6:12am
	Servicing the pump on the tractor is doable depending on which dirrection the shaft is on, I don't own a 180, so not sure if they are the same as the 190. HOWEVER, you can get yourself in a world of hurt if you get any dirt whatsoever in the pump. It really is not a good idea. If the govenor is surging, you could have a couple of different pump problems, I think the best idea would be to take it to a pump shop and have it rebuilt. Since the tractor is new to you, I would do a compression check just to see where things are at, that way you know, but starting issues could be pump related or not. Edited by Orange Blood - 21 Apr 2011 at 6:14am
	Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7

MACK Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664	Post Options Post Reply Quote MACK Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 7:00am
	Throttle and shutoff shaft can both removed without removing pump. Remove top cover there is a clip holding the two shafts togather. Remove the clip and slide the shafts out. Remove the screw holding arm on throttle shaft and it can be removed. Make sure the clip is installed with long leg to back of pump. MACK

injpumpEd Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 4762	Post Options Post Reply Quote injpumpEd Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 10:09am
	as mack says the leak can be stopped with throttle and shutoff shaft orings. your problem sounds more serious than just leaky orings though. Odds are the flex ring is broken apart inside the pump, plugging the return causing housing pressure to increase, causing the leak, as well as the erratic governing. It is in need of professional attention. good luck, Ed.
	210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!

nsula_country Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Location: NW Louisiana Points: 218	Post Options Post Reply Quote nsula_country Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 11:04am
	I figured it was more than a fuel leak. It only leaks when you pull the fuel cable out to the run position. The governor issue is you can set the speed and it will increase in RPM while under a load. Sometimes it will come back down other times you have to bump the throttle down a bit. I'm afraid it may try to "run away" on me and overspeed. This is my 1st Allis Chalmers, I have always wanted one. I did not know what to look for. I got a good deal, but between the injector pump (hope injectors are ok) and the power director slipping, I may have a basket case that will cost me more than I thought. Hopefully it will be worth while once I get it all repaired and painted. CT

sandylakeimplement Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Sandy Lake, PA Points: 399	Post Options Post Reply Quote sandylakeimplement Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 12:39pm
	We just did a pump reconditioning yesterday for a 180. $680 including about $130 for items not always needed. Bill
	Sandy Lake Implement Sandy Lake, PA 724-376-2489 www.sandylakeimp.com FIND US ON FACEBOOK

nsula_country Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Location: NW Louisiana Points: 218	Post Options Post Reply Quote nsula_country Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 2:12pm
	Injector pumps are never cheap to O/H, but its nature of the beast. I still prefer dealing with one injector pump and injectors vs plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser, mag (if it has one) ect. Not to mention carburetor and then timing/adjusting everything into harmony. I'm convinced it will be better to have it serviced and gone through. If I don't now, I will have to do it in the future with hay in the field with rain threatening. Thanks,

injpumpEd Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 4762	Post Options Post Reply Quote injpumpEd Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 2:35pm
	DB pumps run right around $500 - $600 depending on how bad of shape it's in.
	210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!