Allis Chalmers wd45 hand clutch

Both of the break rods are in hooked

Have the hand clutch engaged/locked before you split the tractor to make it easier to roll it back together. The bent snap ring may be twisted back into shape (maybe) by using a bench vise. If that snap ring doesn't fit in the groove well, it may not stay put and you get to do this all over again. Lastly, the reason the original snap ring blew out of the groove may be because the groove is WORN, not being able to hold the snap ring well. Tack welding the ends of the snap ring to the groove would be a way to insure things stay in place and I don't give a rip about "welding" it making the two pieces unuseable. If the groove is worn out, welding the snap ring into the groove solves the problem. Make sure to vise grip the snap ring down tight into the groove before welding it.

The clutch shaft can pull out of trans. Nothing holding it in place. The roller bearing inside will be fine unless cage is totally worn out then may fall apart. When going back together take that shaft and put it through hand clutch plates and into front pilot to get everything lined up then stick it back in trans. Lock foot clutch down so you can rotate hand clutch by hand while trying to slide trans back in place. Probably best to put trans in gear to hold shaft while turning hand clutch.

How do I get the clutch shaft out so I can remove the hand clutch once I get it split enough. Also how do I unbolt the clutch without it spinning

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LuZkGtwz5siNcfJL6

Here's a better video

Need a jack directly under the PTO box. The tractor is trying to fall down into a heap without a jack to support the PTO box and forward, UNLESS your loader is raised up ????? Tractor has to be split probably 10 inches wide. Use two long dowels on the top and none on the bottom. Transmission MUST be in NEUTRAL.

Edited by DrAllis - 05 May 2024 at 6:04pm

hunter show a pic or a video of how you have the tractor supported right now. I've only ever split a B and I used a cherry picker on the front so I could move the front in and out. Had the rear on other supports. How are you moving yours?  Oh I won't trust the loader to much. 

First, I have my doubts that you will be able to slide it apart without some sort of support on both ends. 

Edited by WF owner - 05 May 2024 at 7:56pm

ABSOLUTELY get an easily adjusted jack under the PTO box FIRST !!  I don't feel you NEED the two lower dowel bolts because they could be dragging causing you issues BUT you've got to support the PTO box area FIRST.

Get your bottle jack under the pto well placed so it cant kick out. You need a floor jack on a wide plank or heavy plywood under the snap coupler bell. YOU HAVE TO SUPPORT BOTH ENDS!!! When they are jacked evenly the rear half will roll away with the floor jack. You have to remove the brass shifting collar to get the clutch out. Use a long punch stuck it the clutch at the bolts to loosen bolts. You can take them out of clutch later being loose. The shaft going through the clutch has to be totally withdrawn to pull clutch out the top. That 10 inch split ballpark. The clutch shaft likes to stay in the clutch not the transmission and it MUST stay in trans to have room to pull clutch.

SteveM C/IL wrote: ... You need a floor jack on a wide plank or heavy plywood under the snap coupler bell...

I really have bad feelings about you undertaking something like this, when you have no idea what you are doing or the possible repercussions, if something goes wrong. Can't you find someone that has split a tractor before to guide you?

... and don't forget that, at some point you have to be able to align things to get it back together. Don't try to pull it together by pulling it with the bolts (threading it together).

just wondering, are the videos helping you guy understand what I am doing