Allis Chalmers wd45 hand clutch

Well then, you've got some choices to make. You want to work on this tractor?? it takes tools. You don't have what it takes, buy the tool that does the job or figure out another way.

I think Im just going to give up on have a working hand clutch. No matter what I do I can't get the ring over the shaft and have it be the right shape to fit in the grove. The only way I have left is to split the tractor and I don't have anything to do that and don't have money to get anything

Yes I do but the snap ring is not in the right shape

I'm splitting it right behind the hand clutch. What gaskets do I need

Ok.
I am making great progress on splitting the tractor, tomorrow I am going to get 3/4 in all thread to support the back end of the tractor and I'm going to try to split it tomorrow and get the clutch out.

Thanks for all your help.
I do need to find what gaskets to get and is it a good idea to weld the snap ring in place.
Also my transmission fluid had water in it.

Make sure to put some blocks between the front axle and the frame if you don't have something holding the frame from tipping.

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Is this the right gasket

Thanks
I just got it ordered along with a shift tower gasket

hunter321 wrote:

Is welding the snap ring in place a good idea

When someone inevitably goes wrong, do you want to be the one that has to fix it after being welded into place?

Do you guys have any advice on how to bend the snap ring into the correct shape on the hand clutch once I get it out of the tractor so it fits perfectly so I don't need to weld it in place

Bell housing is the casting bolted to rear of engine which houses the foot clutch. If a wide front you can wedge 2X4's between axle and frame rails to keep vertical stability and place a jack under bell housing. Block front tires each side to keep it from moving. A narrow front is not stable and is top heavy. Need a splitting stand or "A" frame attatched to frame rails hanging from a hoist.. Once front half is well supported you put a floor jack under drawbar next to snap coupler bell and roll back half away from front half. If you don't have a concrete floor to work on you will likely have a big failure.

Could I support the frame with a spool on either side of the tractor and use a jack to support the bell housing

I'll try the spools
What do I put the jack under. Is it right under the hand clutch housing. I need to know
How do I bend the snap ring in the right shape.

hunter321 wrote:

I forgot to mention that the front end of the tractor can't move because I have a loader on it and the bucket is digging into the ground

If you are relying on the hydraulics to hold it it, for safety you still need to block the front portion of the tractor in case the hydraulics leak down.

I have split a similar size tractor on the dirt all by myself. I put a piece of plywood under the transmission area and used a floor jack to support the transmission, then rolled the rear half of the tractor back. The fun part was lining up the two-stage clutch and getting it all back together.

I had everything well blocked for safety.

Hard to see everything. One brake rod unhooked it takes 2. Looks like a bottle jack under the back half. How do you roll it away on that? It's fixed and can't move. The front needs a jack too because you can't block it in the perfect position. Need to be able to vary the height. You may well be just in a bind from not being in line. Going back together is much trickier because it has to be nearly perfect alignment and the big redi rod doesn't align anything.

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