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Possible broken drive axle D grader |
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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Posted: 29 Jan 2024 at 5:14am |
Codger - oh yes - definitely better to catch it now! And it has the rather important job of maintaining a gap between the bearing and the drive gear - which allows oil from the chain box to circulate to the bearing. So missing that would have been BAD.
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 1804 |
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I think we've all done that, (or similar) a time or two over the years. Good you caught it now rather than finding it under a bench remembering, "I remember dropping that" and never retrieving prior to the next task and then forgetting all about it.....
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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I got back to do some more work today. Got the bearing seated properly and the snap ring in place. Then I put the double gear on the new shaft. Was going well until I figured out that I had forgotten one thing…
The spacer that is meant to go between the bearing and the gear… Oh well. Have to take a trip to town and buy a gear puller tomorrow, pull it off, install the spacer, then put it back on again. I live and learn, but making progress.
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DonBC
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Courtenay, BC, Points: 900 |
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I imagine that many D grader owners have chain box story's. When I got my grader one of the chains for the left side was sitting on the floor of the cab. Using a magnet on a telescopic handle I started looking in the chain box for the pin for the master link. Besides some pieces of metal I fished out a very badly beaten up 1/2" drive 5/8" socket. It was just large enough to jamb the driven sprocket. I removed all the oil and cleaned out any metal pieces and reassembled the chain. The old chain was stretched enough that it would jump a tooth now and then so I finally bought a new chain.
The rear sprocket on the same side was slightly loose on the tapered shaft. The washer and the nut were tight to the boss on the shaft but the wheel was still loose on the shaft. It had been this way since new so the taper and the keyway on the wheel had suffered some wear. Some spray welding and machining to the inner hole of the wheel match the taper of the axle made the wheel tight to the shaft. The keyway was machined and a new key was made that fit the keyway on the wheel one one side and the keyway on the axle on the other side. I had a cupped washer made so the nut could now push the wheel tightly on the shaft. New chains for that side and it was good to go. Spent a lot of money for this fix but never had any more problems with the wheels. Apparently some others had encountered similar problems with bad machining by AC.
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Jack of all trades, master of none
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wjohn
Orange Level Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 1807 |
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Welding out a race was my first though too for the missing material.
Lots of loose parts... Don't you wish these things could tell us their stories sometimes?
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 627 |
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Yup, I have welded bearing races to shrink them, if you get it right they just fall out
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 1804 |
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That was my thought too with attempting to remove a former race. I've never had to split one in it's bore but have welded a plate to the inner side to pull with a slide hammer a couple of times when the backside was not accessible.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77901 |
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Those SPOTS where the bearing sets actually look like caused by an arc welder ? Im wondering if they could not get the race out and welded on it to shrink it... Dont know how they got that deep, but look like local hot spots / points from a weld stick..
I have used a welder to WELD on the race.. This actually looks like they were trying to BURN the race in half.. Carbon arc.. or HIGH AMPS on that stick. Edited by steve(ill) - 25 Jan 2024 at 8:22am |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 1804 |
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Good progress and thanks for the update. I've seen all kinds of bearing bores destroyed over the years and that one won't hurt anything as the outer bearing race is tight to the bore. Before you button it up, I would get some oil into that bearing whether it be a thing gear oil, or even a thin bearing grease. Reason being is that even though that is a lubricated bearing, it has none upon initial startup. It is perhaps submerged in oil and if the case then no pre lube is required but I always grease them upon installation as the grease will disolve into the lubricating oil but dry startup is never a good thing with roller bearings.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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So today was the day and I finally got to start putting the new drive shaft in the grader! First job:drill a new drain hole at the back of the chain box because there was no way I was going to bail the remaining 15mm of oil out through the side hatch. That oil was nasty... Drilling of a 10.8mm hole was followed by tapping and the installation of a sump plug with crush washer. Took me forever to find the right size drill bit (10.8mm - seriously? I had to buy that online couldn't find it anywhere on a shelf) 12mm (UNF I think) taps (which everyone had sold out of) and bungs to suit (which were thankfully easy enough to find), but it worked out really well - and the (horrible dirt laden) oil made the tapping pretty easy - free lubrication! A side note here - when I was measuring up the chain box to work out where to put the drain hole it became apparent that Allis Chalmers A. weren't playing - those chain boxes are made of 12mm / half inch steel that my HS drill bits took their own sweet time getting through and B. did not care in the least how the result looked. The end plate is just slapped on there and welded in place. Alignment? Who cares? it won't matter once it's welded on! Next step, clean out about four liters of oil, 3mm of mud, and - I kid you not - enough ball bearings, split pins, and shards of metal to make a disaster movie. Bad things happened in that chainbox somewhere in the past (yes that a little bit of foreshadowing). But it all cleaned up pretty nicely in the end - after repeated flushing with diesel (shaking the grader around to slosh the diesel was the hardest part), then lots of wiping out with cloth rags that went straight in the bin! Looks rather nice in there now: Next step: insert the new oil seal. I didn't have anything to press it in with, so I went for the "lump of wood hacked into a workable shape" option. It worked. I don't think that the seal suffered any real damage. The eagle eyed among you will notice that something bad happened to the bearing seat in the photo above. Here's a better view: I have no idea what, but I'm guessing that it was involved in the installation of the scrap bin of metal parts and shards in the bottom of the chain box some time ago. Still, I think it just looks nasty and shouldn't effect anything. And yes I did clean out the bearing and snap ring seat before I proceeded. Then it was time to pull out the new driveshaft: Don't ask me how but the (phone) camera makes these two *identical* shafts look vastly different lengths. Thankfully they aren't and I have other photos to prove it - but look at that shiny new metal! Mmmmm... shiny. Shaft went in nicely, then I pressed the bearing in. Thankfully while firm, it wasn't nearly as tight a fit as the oil seal, so I managed to slowly, gently tap it in, again with appropriately hacked wood. I got it in flush with the housing, but ran out of time to shape another piece of wood to let me push it in further. But it's in place at least! So, having run out of time I buttoned everything back up to keep the water out and called it a day. I'll be back to it on Sunday hopefully. Get that bearing finished, install the snap ring (I have a bad feeling that is going to be a fight), install the centre sprocket, reinstall the chains, fill with oil, make up new gaskets for all of the chain box ports, then bolt the ports down. Then I have to go de-sludge the other side... (at least I get to use my expensive, weird drill bit and expensive, rare taps again). So more photos and narration will follow!
Edited by LangdonStevenson - 25 Jan 2024 at 1:53am |
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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Codger - thank you, yes fingers crossed! I'm looking forward to seeing it all buttoned up again and back to work. I think putting the new drain bungs in is going to fun too. It's nice to do an actual upgrade like the hydraulic rams rebuild. Honestly I've never bought oil in bulk like this, so I don't know what's standard and what's not. Anything up to about 6 liters is always in plastic at least.
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 1804 |
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Good on ya mate! Hopefully she goes smooth on reassembly.
I see your gear oil is in steel pails. Is that still common down under? Plastic pails are the common container any longer here.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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I now have all the pieces in place to get the grader back together.
It's weird that the cheapest supplier (including shipping) was from the other side of the country. But anyway, I'm all set. Now I just need it to stop pouring rain for a day so I can do the work! And a pump to get the oil into the gearbox. That I don't have yet. |
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77901 |
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Also the axle is 65 years old.. Could have been made to spec and just hit something HARD and put a small crack in the shaft that grew over time.... YES, each shaft has a weak point and that would normally be at a sharp cut step in the shaft. ... or could be a small radius cut in the shaft........hard to tell what happened in the last 60- 75 years..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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Ray54 - thank you! ACMOC has already been an invaluable resource for me, it was the first thing I found when I started doing the research on what would be involved. I think I found them via PacificNorthWestHillBilly's Youtube channel as he was using them for assistance on his little D4 rebuild (a series that's well worth a watch). As you say ACMOC have a lot of resources and knowledgeable people who are very happy to help.
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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Les Kerf - yes, that's a valid point about manufacturing not following the design documents. It just goes to show that product quality is a result of well designed systems and whole company culture. Not easy to do and something that requires eternal vigilance and support.
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Ray54
Orange Level Access Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Paso Robles, Ca Points: 4368 |
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When you get into the D6 check out Antique Caterpillar Machinery Owners Club forum. Membership gets you into the library that is still growing. But all the operators, repair manuals, and parts books are there. As well as all the books for attachment such as the cable winches and hydraulic parts and repair, and dozer blade manuals. As well as a good number local clubs are active in your county.
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 627 |
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And sometimes the design and engineering is correct but manufacturing gets it wrong. In my last job before retiring I worked in the engineering department of a company that builds industrial rotary encoders. Compared to earth moving equipment, these gadgets are tiny; we started having some field failures of a certain model, the 1/4" diameter shafts were breaking inside the unit right where there was a shoulder for mounting the code wheel. The engineering specs and drawings called for a small radius at this juncture (I forget the exact number) and even specified the part number of the tool to be used for this operation. Whoever it was that set up the CNC machine either didn't read the specs or simply ignored them, because they used the sharpest most pointed tool available to cut that 'radius'. We had a really nifty high-powered optical inspection system there so it was easy to diagnose the problem (I sometimes wish I still had access to all of the wonderful tools in that engineering lab). We replaced those units at no charge to the customers. |
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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DonBC - Hurray for math and science! It really does suprise me when simple mistakes like this are made in engineering and design. We understand all of the basic principals involved here - we just have to apply them!
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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TramwayGuy - I have to say that I'm loathed to make any modifications to the new shaft. Given the age of the machine and the amount that I use it, my inclination is just to run it as it is. I have no doubt that it will give me a few years of work - which will be more than enough. There is also the question of: if I fix that flaw where does the stress go to? The answer may well be: to the splines on the inboard end in the bevel gear (which I'm told is another common failure in these machines), which would be a much bigger problem to fix! If I have to choose a failure point then I'd definitely rather it broke at the chain box end like this. Call it "sacrificial"
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DonBC
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Courtenay, BC, Points: 900 |
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I saw the same problem with the shaft for the mixer of a large mixing tank at a mine in the Yukon. They kept having failures on the output shaft of the worm drive that was rigidly couple to the long mixer shaft. Theoretically the shaft diameters were more than adequate. I got into one of my old design books regarding diameter changes. The rotation of the mixer blades at the bottom of the long mixer shaft produced variable cyclical lateral forces at the end of the shaft. Using a formular from my text and the rotation speed of the shaft it projected almost to the day that the shaft would fail. They made a new shaft with a radius at the shaft diameter change and never had a failure again.
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Jack of all trades, master of none
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TramwayGuy
Orange Level Access Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: Northern NY Points: 11224 |
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Check the new shaft to make sure there is a radius where the shoulder is. If not, it would pay you to have one machined in it. Stress risers occur without one. |
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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Hi Codger - that's a pretty cool dozer. I'm working on rescuing an old D6 8U that's a similar size. I have a lot of work that i could do with a machine like yours. Yeah the transport cost can be a real killer, especially here in Australia where heavy trailers cost a *lot* to register ($14,000 per year for a two axle low loader). Yes - the same thing has happened to me multiple times. I get onto a job then have a neighbour come over and ask if I can do something for them! Love that photo of you walking the dozer over the road. Ha, yes keep that fuel topped up - especially in older machines so you don't pull the crud in the bottom of the tank through!
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 1804 |
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That is the same way with my 11-B dozer. I know enough people needing work from a medium sized machine it will pay for itself in just a couple of small jobs. Running near perfect with no mechanical problems I'm aware of it a large bonus of course to start out with. Like you, a medium sized machine is much easier to move than something larger. Though not as productive on a large job, (not my focus) several small bites will get the job done. With no debt or encumbrances on a machine, you can charge less and still operate profitable and productive which on the backside will get you more work. I've only done a couple of small jobs for family for some very poor wages, but I've certainly learned lots as there is no better training than time in the saddle. These basically low paying jobs have garnered other work in the same area for others whom had they not seen me would not have materialized. Nothing like completing one job to throw tires down to cross the street to start the next. Now I just need warm weather.....
Edited by Codger - 05 Jan 2024 at 5:14pm |
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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Codger - yes they are still very productive machines. Not as comfortable, powerful, and fast as modern machines, but they will get the job done if you let them. Take small bites, repeat. There is literally no other machine that will do the same job. As for price - they are a lot more expensive (still) here in Australia, even for a very tired old junker like my D Model than they are in the US. Mine cost $14,000, but it has paid for itself in a couple of projects. If I get even a couple of years out of it without too many issues then it will have been very profitable to own. The key thing here though is that the machine doesn't do a lot of hours - but having it lets me win jobs that I wouldn't otherwise get that include a *lot* of hours doing other work. The project I'm working on currently will only require a day of grader work probably, but I'll rack up 100+ hours of excavating gravel/clay on site to use on the road that the grader will finish. Without that machine I wouldn't have gotten the job at all, so it's been an excellent investment.
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41214 |
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I have a full size grader setting out back Adams 411 - vintage of around 1938/40 or so and with a IN UD-4 4 cylinder gas / diesel power .
All mechanical blade system and steering - something i have not used in 20 years - now if someone needs a grader ???? |
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 1804 |
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I understand that for certain. Seemingly these older motor graders can be purchased reasonable and if a guy can work on them himself, do quite well. I've never been around them myself nor really operated one where it counts, but an experienced operator can make some nice work on short order; especially ditching and sloping.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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Coger - yes, definitely worth clarifying. In the future I'm going to be a bit more careful about not pushing it too hard - it is after all only little! Yes I am really lucky that there was a brand new part available on the shelf. And I agree about these small machines. I can do work with it that I couldn't do with a bigger machine and it's cheaper to get it trucked from one site to the next because it's so small. I think that the owner of the farm I'm working on at the moment would buy it off me just to maintain his roads if I offered.
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 1804 |
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Thanks for the clarification. Your explanation is how I seen it but have been wrong in the past. Yes, that Cummins engine will have significantly higher torque output than the former engine. Glad you are able to source parts. Definitely worthy of a repair as those machines are handy to keep around.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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LangdonStevenson
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2023 Location: Australia Points: 73 |
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Hi Codger, Yes I figure that the weight coming off the left hand wheels (even though it wasn't exactly sudden) probably just overloaded the right hand drive shaft. Also my grader (which originally had a petrol motor) has been engine swapped and now has a Cummins diesel which probably makes significantly more torque than the original petrol motor, so the shafts may just be a bit under spec'ed for that motor. Yes the bearing sits against the shoulder - I assume that the shoulder is machined there to prevent the bearing migrating inward (the break occurred on the inboard/gearbox side of the bearing) there is a spring clip that I had to remove on the outboard side of the bearing to retain it in that direction. Yes the part in my hand is the long section with the splined end that slides into the bevel gear in the gearbox.
Edited by LangdonStevenson - 05 Jan 2024 at 6:34am |
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