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24 volt ammeter

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walnut1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote walnut1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 24 volt ammeter
    Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 11:30am
Anyone know of a source for a 24 volt ammeter for an HD11? All I can find are one wire digital ones or $150 aircraft gauges.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 11:57am
amp meter measures current.. VOLT meter measures voltage.
 
If you want an amp meter, it would be the same as the small tractors. If you want a VOLT meter, I would think they are available for many older dozers / loaders / 24v trucks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 12:00pm
https://www.grainger.com
 
 

2" Stainless Steel Engine Voltmeter Gauge with 2-1/16" (53mm) Mounting Hole

  • Item # 45YT92
  • My Part #
  • Mfr. Model # VP0132
  • Catalog Page # N/A
  • UNSPSC # 41113637
Engine Voltmeter Gauge,2in. Dia.,14-32V.
                        

               $42.80 / each



Edited by steve(ill) - 19 Feb 2018 at 12:15pm
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or a BLACK ring for $32. at Graingers
 

2" Black Aluminum Engine Voltmeter Gauge with 2-1/16" (53mm) Mounting Hole

  • Item # 45YT93
  • My Part #
  • Mfr. Model # VP0129
  • Catalog Page # N/A
  • UNSPSC # 41113637
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Garlic Pete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 12:33pm
I think, but am not sure if this is correct, that the ammeter doesn't care what voltage is applied to it.  It just measures the electrons that pass by.
 
As long as the voltage doesn't get so high that the insulation is breached or internal parts are too close to each other (like hooking up a automotive type ammeter to, say, 480 volts) you can use any ammeter in a system with any nominal voltage.
 
If you really want a volt meter, steve(ill) has given you some good choices.
 
Pete.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 2:06pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote walnut1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 2:08pm
Garlic Pete, thanks for the info. I was curious if that is the case. I can find many that say 12 volts, I’ll try one and let you know. My multimeter is showing around 27+ volts when charging. Both my HD11s have ammeters, not voltage meters. I believe they came that way because my dad bought the tractors new and he said he never replaced them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote walnut1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 2:13pm
JC, thanks for the links, I just sent the seller a question whether they’ll work with a 24 volt system. I’ll post the reply.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote walnut1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 2:49pm
The seller, hwaccumulator, said they only work with 12 volt. I put a 35 amp one wire alternator on it, I think it should work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 4:16pm
an amp meter measures AMPS.. has nothing to do with VOLTS unless it is electronic controlled... an old Mechanical AMP gauge will work on 12 or 24 volts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 4:33pm
I agree with Steve. An old mechanical ammeter should work on 6, 12, or 24 volts as long as it's range can cover the charge rate. How many 6 volt tractors and other vehicles have been converted to 12 volts and the same ammeter used by just reversing the leads? They work until the current over loads them, which might be a long time. The likely reason a manufacturer will say an ammeter is for a certain voltage is the lighting kit/bulb they supply with it, as lighting is more commonly supplied in the gauges than it used to be. Stewart Warner gave an option of 12 or 24 volt lighting kits for their ammeters.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 5:05pm
I am replacing all my gauges with Stewart Warner analog mechanical gauges. Jegs carries them all. $36.00 to $45.00 each. They all come with light kits but if your dash light is functional you don't have to hook em up.

Regarding lights, could you use s lead from one 12 volt battery to run all the lights? If so, as my HD16 is s 24volt system and a positive ground do I have to reverse the gauge wires to get 12 volt?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 5:56pm
jerbob, I may not be following what you are asking but, reversing the wires won't reduce 24 volts to 12. On a 24 volt positive ground system, with two batteries in series, you should have 12 volts at the negative terminal of the battery that has the positive post connected to ground. You can check that with a voltmeter. You would have to run a separate wire from there to supply your light switch with 12 volts. You could put a resistor in the 24 volt supply to the lights and reduce it to 12 volts. It would seem it would be easier to get and install the right 24 volt bulbs and reduce the chances shorting something out. Years ago I remember seeing screws driven into the lead connections between cells on the old 12 volt tar topped batteries so people could run 6 volt accessories from them or resistors installed for the same purpose. I also remember seeing somethings go up in smoke from these taps as well. If you decide to do something like this please put a fuse in your wire near the battery.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 6:18pm
Hook up a meter to the batteries and check the amperage, when starting, and when the batteries are charging.  IIRR, amp meters can be bought in several sweeps, from -30- +30, is a 60 amp amp meter.  I doubt yours is putting out much more, but if it is, a truck amp meter should be available in the range you find...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 6:54pm
Just to clarify. A voltmeter can be hooked across the battery terminals to check draw down when starting. An ammeter should never be connected across the battery terminals, that can get someone hurt. A regular ammeter might be used to check for parasitic draw, in series, between one battery terminal and its cable, but often that needs a meter that reads milliamps. One would need a big ammeter,(400 + amp range), if it is to be hooked in series between the battery terminal and battery cable to check stating draw. A -30 -0- +30 ammeter would be a 30 amp meter, it is for designed for 30 amps either way from zero.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 7:34pm
we use to put CBs and Radios in crawler tractors that were 24 volts.... you just run a separate wire to ONE battery ( that has the other side grounded to frame) to get 12 volts... Done all the time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 7:59pm
I agree with you and have done the same for radios. It is often done and does work if done correctly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 8:32pm
A AMP meter uses a SHUNT to measure resistance or flow of electricity across a given conductor = the measurement is in AMPS / the force of the current .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote truckerfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 9:36pm
Originally posted by Jim.ME Jim.ME wrote:

jerbob, I may not be following what you are asking but, reversing the wires won't reduce 24 volts to 12. On a 24 volt positive ground system, with two batteries in series, you should have 12 volts at the negative terminal of the battery that has the positive post connected to ground. You can check that with a voltmeter. You would have to run a separate wire from there to supply your light switch with 12 volts. You could put a resistor in the 24 volt supply to the lights and reduce it to 12 volts. It would seem it would be easier to get and install the right 24 volt bulbs and reduce the chances shorting something out. Years ago I remember seeing screws driven into the lead connections between cells on the old 12 volt tar topped batteries so people could run 6 volt accessories from them or resistors installed for the same purpose. I also remember seeing somethings go up in smoke from these taps as well. If you decide to do something like this please put a fuse in your wire near the battery.

The old ACs running 6 volt positive ground. When switching to 12 volt it's negative ground. That's why you reverse polarity on the ammeter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2018 at 5:51am
Ammeter should be connected inline with cable, that is why they work any voltage, the reason they note 12V is due to the lamp socket and bulb is rated 12v.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2018 at 8:49am
Thank you for responding Jim.ME

I misspoke and didn't mean to say crossing the wires to go from 24 volt to 12 volt. I was trying to say that if I wanted to cut in a couple of 12 volt lights to the rear of the tractor, do I hook up the wire to the negative post which on my hd16 is the positive. Or the positive post which is going to ground. I have 2 12 volt batteries connected per manual and the positive post goes to ground. In this case, the negative is acting as the positive and my wire and switch goes to that post correct? I believe several have commented on that later in my post.

I thought about it and as I have put in 2 new 24 volt headlights, I can do same for the rear and not fools with using one battery or the other. I can just tie into the line going to the front lights I believe.

Obviously I am not experienced in the wiring on this tractor but learning.

Thank you and everyone for responding.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2018 at 8:51am
Thanks Coke.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2018 at 8:52am
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:


we use to put CBs and Radios in crawler tractors that were 24 volts.... you just run a separate wire to ONE battery ( that has the other side grounded to frame) to get 12 volts... Done all the time.


This one line,,, would go to the negative post on a Positive ground system correct?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2018 at 7:22pm
YES........ this assumes your 12 volt load does not care about positive ground... may not work on a radio, works OK on light, etc.
 
----- if your connecting a radio or CB... it would be best to not GROUND the radio case to the tractor steel cab... then just connect the radio as normal with the one battery. 


Edited by steve(ill) - 20 Feb 2018 at 7:25pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2018 at 8:19pm
Perfect Steve. Thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote walnut1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2018 at 8:09pm
EBay 12 volt ammeter came today, works well so far. Thanks for the advice all!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2018 at 6:25am
um, Steve , you're diagram will blow up the radio PDQ !!!

You've shown the dozer to be +ve ground, so feeding MINUS 12 V to the radio...poof !!
 I haven't seen a +v gnd radio in 4 decades..but if the radio is original to the dozer, and the dozer IS +ve gnd, then it'll work fine but NOT a new,off the shelf radio.

just food for thought.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2018 at 8:15am
no, he wanted 12 volts for LIGHTS. .......... as I mentioned in the post, you can not connect the negative battery post to the positive radio post.. You would ALWAYS connect the negative to the radio frame and the positive to the radio hot wire... and then NOT ground the radio case...... It could be done, but a little complicated...If the system was 24 volts and NEGATIVE GROUND as most would be these days, then your good to go with 12 volt tap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TramwayGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 5:53am
The problem with drawing 12 volts off the center like that is that it makes the batteries ‘unbalanced’, and one battery will go dead or you will overcharge one because of it.
Much better to convert the lights to 24 volt.

For a radio, one could use a resistor to drop voltage to the correct level.

Edited by TramwayGuy - 27 Feb 2018 at 5:55am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 6:08am
I'm not apologizing for asking about the using 12 volt lights on a 24volt positive ground system. Great feedback and many opinions.

I am going to use 24volt lights for the rear of the tractor. That said, wiring in a pair of 24volt lights on my 16, where can I hook into the system to cut in a switch and a couple of lights

Hahaha chew on this one.
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