Blew the motor on an Allis D-14

Oh, OH, hope it's something simple to fix!

"REMOVE pipe wrench BEFORE starting !!! do NOT ask WHY I KNOW this...."   I put an interesting dent in my 4 year old Ford Courier front fender that way while working on a n MF 65 about 40 years ago...

The last picture looks like it may be antifreeze.

New problem.

I'm burning oil around the muffler. Yep...that's what I said. I don't see any leaks, pulled the intake/exhaust manifold off and had some black, burnt oil on the ports. Cleaned it up, but can not for the life of me see where it's coming from. So I took some pics. See below...

Excellent news! Congratulations - must feel great!!!!

Great news. That's the best feeling ever isn't it?

Before you put the plugs in, roll the engine over several times. If there are any tight spots in it have a can setting close by and kick it as far as you can, or you can set on it and cry for a while. If you didn't have the crank checked for bend or check the other rods for bends. Have it done. That means a tear down, and take crank and rods to an engine shop and have them checked. If they're not OK the best you can expect is a heck of a vibration when you start it up and it will not get better. They both can be straightened and  reused if you want to.

Well said, Dave! 

Being nervous is natural... all part of the process.

I don't know why, but I'm always nervous when I go to start an engine that I've built fully... but if I only give it a partial... like just a top end, or bottom end, etc., I'm not nervous at all.  Perhaps it's because they're all unproven at the same time... I dunno.

But you've done a good, thorough job of everything here so far, and keep in mind that between technology, tools (Bridgeport made a high-quality Precision Valve Spring compressor!!!), and and resources (books, materials, and an army of old farts with computers willing to share their mistakes...

"REMOVE pipe wrench BEFORE starting !!! do NOT ask WHY I KNOW this...."

Owch!  Yep... and the chuck-key from the drill press... and the can from the exhaust stack of the oilfield engine parked directly underneath the big merc-vapor low-bay lamp...

...You'll do just fine.  Realize, farmers did this on rainy days, and if they were lucky, the dirt-floor shed was high enough to stay dry... so you're gonna be fine.  Double check all your fasteners around the front of the engine, and make sure it won't jump into gear and drive over you or your pit crew when it lights up.

Today I had my 9 year old son in the garage helping me put the D14 back together. We got the push rods, rocker arms, valve cover, and thermostat and housing all back on. He was excited to help, and was awesome at helping set the initial tappet gap.

Next on the agenda is the pick up, oil pan, and putting fluids back in.

To say I'm nervous, is an under statement. But, that's we learn, right?

Spending time with the oldest boy, and teaching him a little something is worth it.

Using the machine tool to install the valve springs seems like a logical thing to do.  I once used a jack used to lift war heads onto air defense missiles to install an engine in my VW bus.  Inspector later asked the crew where the dirty engine oil on the jack came from.......

squirt239 wrote: Because I have been known to be a bonehead at times....

Another question....

What tools have you used to get the two bolts on the oil pan, closest to the bell housing?  I've used a wrench, but I can only move it a smidgeon each time before resetting.  Tite reach?  Some tool I've never heard of?

Lonn wrote: Isn't there a hole under front grill screen for a crank to slip in? If so, and the crank pulley is right then a C Allis crank should grab the crank pulley to turn it over.

There is, but I don't want to chance buying a tool that may or may not work.  I think the pto trick is the way to go!!! 

Thanks guys!

Isn't there a hole under front grill screen for a crank to slip in? If so, and the crank pulley is right then a C Allis crank should grab the crank pulley to turn it over.