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squirt239 
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Location: Brownsburg, IN
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 Topic: Blew the motor on an Allis D-14
Posted: 20 Nov 2017 at 1:26pm |
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Well...it was a good run.
I rebuilt the D-14. Had it running great! Bush hogged my property twice this year. Moved stuff around the farm, etc. And then it happened....
Yesterday, I shot a deer back in the woods. Took the tractor down the hill to get it. When I got to the bottom of the hill, it sounded like it was "missing" out. Maybe a fouled plug, but then it quit. I had been having issues with the spark plug wire grounding out on the block, so I didn't think much about it. Loaded the deer on the back, and went back up the hill. Again, started sounding like it was missing, and quit running half way up the hill. Odd....
So I sat for a couple seconds, and started it again. It fired right up, only this time it belched out a HUGE cloud of white smoke out of the stack. Not good. I got it to the top of the hill (20 yards) and I shut it off. When I went to start it back up, it wouldn't even turn over. Almost like it's locked up.
Fluids all checked good.
It looks like another rebuild is in the books for the ole girl.
Sure wish I knew where to start.
That's my luck though....
Edited by squirt239 - 18 Dec 2017 at 1:45pm
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 20 Nov 2017 at 2:19pm |
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white smoke generally means some water in the cylinders...maybe a blown head gasket , busted sleeve ??
won't turn over , it could be 'hydraulic lock'. That's when water FILLS a cylinder and you cannot compress water(piston tries to get to top of cylinder with both valves closed and 'slug of water' stops it HARD.
I'd pull all 4 plugs and blast some compressed air into each cylinder. I'm betting 1 or 2 will soak you....sorry.
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Ted J
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Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 8:10am |
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Yep, sounds like water in the cylinders.
Did you re-torque the heads after it got warm after your rebuild? If not, that is your problem for sure!
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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LeonR2013
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Location: Fulton, Mo
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Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 8:38am |
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When torquing a head, instead of just pulling it up fairly quickly and quitting there, I like to pull it up slowly until it clicks. I'll do the whole head this way. I've never had one let go. But I agree with the other guys that after at least a couple of heat cycles, then completely retorque. Clean the holes and wash out the holes with solvent and blow out. Clean the head bolts real well, and I like to use Lubri-Plate on the threads, not a lot. Hope this helps.
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squirt239
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Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 10:55am |
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Thanks guys. Guess it looks like a spring job. It's down at the farm (some 50 miles one way), so I don't think I will trailer it home any time soon. It's going to be hard to get the thing back over the rail tracks, up on a trailer, etc. So I might have to do all the work down there. Which means carrying all the tools needed to do so. Ugh...
Not looking forward to all that.
Think I could clean all the pistons out, retorque the head, and fire it up down there? Or do you think I'll need a new head gasket?
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 12:04pm |
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Well before during major work I'd check out a few things.Number one would be the possibility that when you started down the steep hill a slug of water that's been riding in your fuel tank or line may have entered into the fuel system and carb.That'll create havoc and white belching smoke not running right etc.Could have ruined a plug or two etc.Not saying for sure that's what happen but you need to check it out.When you go back to your tractor get it on the level drain the carb blow out the fuel line and let whatever is in the bottom of the tank out.The take out your plugs and take a look,spin the motor over with the starter while the plugs are out.Put in new plugs and try to fire it up.Good chance it may fire right up also if it does add Seafoam to the fuel and let it run awhile before moving the tractor.
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squirt239
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Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 1:09pm |
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One can only hope it's that easy!!!
You guys are awesome!
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squirt239
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Posted: 10 Dec 2017 at 3:13pm |
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Well...it's a little worse than I thought....
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squirt239
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Posted: 10 Dec 2017 at 3:29pm |
Edited by squirt239 - 11 Dec 2017 at 10:23am
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Mikez
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Posted: 10 Dec 2017 at 6:07pm |
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Wow that's not looking good
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thendrix
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Posted: 10 Dec 2017 at 6:56pm |
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Eewwwwww.
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"Farming is a business that makes a Las Vegas craps table look like a regular paycheck" Ronald Reagan
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squirt239
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Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 11:24am |
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squirt239
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Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 11:24am |
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JohnCO
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Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 11:38pm |
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That piston looks a lot like the #i on my Ford 555 backhoe. Cracked cylinder (no sleeves),
It now has a sleeve and a new piston. Haven't gotten around to getting it back together. Hopefully this next month or so. Your engine looks nasty but a couple hundred bucks of parts should make her good as new!
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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dt1050
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Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 6:38am |
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ouch, that stinks. hope the blocks ok, but it looks like ya might have to rebuild that engine, stp aint gonna fix that..
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Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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Bill Long
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Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 7:38am |
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GOOD GRIEF!!!
I was hoping it would be water in the gas, condenser, or coil.
Let us know how it goes.
Wish you the very best.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
PS: We have to realize these tractors are 60 years old. Hate to say it but as I am finding at my age that things just eventually wear out. Sorry
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squirt239
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Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 8:36am |
 With this valve stuck sideways, it gouged the metal. Is this something that should be welded, then machined again, or should I be looking for a new head? Is there anyone you would recommend to do the work? If I need to replace the head, where should I look? I've been looking online, and haven't found much...
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 9:04am |
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It appears to me , there is a hardened insert for the valve seat. They can be replaced if needed and done properly.
Full engine kits come with all new valves. Probably be a good idea to replace them all with new springs. Maybe even new guides would be in order if the old ones are noticeably wore .
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 14 Dec 2017 at 9:05am
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Ted J
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Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 9:51am |
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1st question, did the broken valve cause this?
or
did the piston coming apart cause the valve to break?
I've NEVER seen a piston come apart like that before! Maybe your best bet would be to contact Don(MO). He's our expert here on these old engines. He'll guide you down the path to having her up and running in no time. I'll PM you his phone number. He'd be the first place I'd start.
Good LUCK!!
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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HoughMade
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Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 10:12am |
I would guess the valve dropped (or broke, but likely dropped, then broken by the piston) and caused everything.
Sorry, that looks like some work....but think how sweet it will run when done.
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1951 B
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squirt239
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Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 6:35am |
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squirt239
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Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 6:38am |
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 2:21pm |
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Could always run it on 3 might miss a little but you'd have 1 more cylinder than the old
John Deere tractors
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B26240
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Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 3:58pm |
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I'm guessing it over-reved going down the hill and the valve floated and was hit by the piston. Block, head and crank should all go to a good engine machine shop and be checked out. At least thats what I would do to start with.
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Macon Rounds
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Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 4:57pm |
IMPRESIVE !!!!!! I've seen many high performance engines come apart and not do that kinda damage. I believe rod bolt may have came loose and started the chain reaction. Dropped valve usually just beats the crap out of piston and head. Never seen dropped valve cause rod bolts to break and or bend the rod sideways. Was the rod still in tact on the crank or are my assumption correct ?????
Edited by Macon Rounds - 18 Dec 2017 at 5:19pm
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The Allis "D" Series Tractors, Gravely Walk behind Tractors, Cowboy Action Shooting !!!!!!! And Checkmate
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orangeman
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Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 5:10pm |
Based on the damage to the top of the piston - it looks like the valve danced on top of the piston for a while.
Time to start the overhaul process!
Of course wish you all the best - lots of excellent knowledge and talent here to walk you through the repair.
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Hubnut
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Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 5:50pm |
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Sorry for the loss--but thanks for the pictures. They are indeed impressive. Could the sleeve have been shattered by the dropped valve?
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
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DiyDave
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Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 6:08pm |
Head don't look too bad, I'd take the valves outa that cyl, and grind the dents til the surface us relatively flat (4" hand grinder). Then take it to be magnafluxed and pressure tested, if its OK, there, then have the head rebuilt, or DIY, if you feel equipped and experienced enough to take it on...
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 6:10pm |
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I keep shaking my head when I see the pictures...then I ask myself would you be better buying another complete running D-14 VS the cost of all the bits and pieces and shoptime to fix this engine? Pad of paper and sharp pencil time ??
I KNOW I can't afford or justify rebuilding the Buda diesel when it croaks in the forklift.
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 6:17pm |
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Wow! Nothin' worst than an oil pan full o' parts. Looks like the valve broke, beating the piston to death, breaking the sleeve and allowing the rush of coolant into the cylinder. Hence the bent rod. Coolant doesn't compress well. I would have that block magged to make sure its not cracked. Might have cracked the block with all that damage...
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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