An Auction for the Rest of Us.

The Ac 45 parts book for 10000 engine doesn't give a part number for a complete filter assembly, only numbers for the component parts. 

In that the head assembly is 4377259

  Later  (Head assembly is the filter base)


Edited by Ian Beale - 13 Dec 2017 at 7:12pm

gemdozer was kind enough to sell me the exact right fuel filter housings and base for the Allis Chalmers 11000 engine in the wheel dozer.  He even included one brand new filter with the package!

Last weekend I decided to see if I could get it to run.  There are seven connections to that filter housing, if I counted correctly.  Every single one of them had about an inch or two of almost concrete like stuff plugging them up.  I think they must have been mud dauber wasp work, mixed with diesel.  I spent most of a day tracing connections, getting loose rusted, grown together fittings on hard hoses and unpacking all that stuff.  I now have good clear flow from the tank, through the primary filter, to the lift pump, back to the secondary filter and out to the main injection pump.

The injection pump is an American Bosch, I believe it is a PSB model.  I have good flow through the hydraulic head and out of it to the pressure relief and air vent port, back to the filter housing return to the tank.

I removed the shutoff rod and the cover over the shutoff.  The governor regulator rod is free and appears to move normally through the proper range of motion.  Everything I can see in there is clean, with a good coating of oil and no rust, not even a speck.  When I crank the engine, I can see the injector pump gear rotating behind the governor regulator rod arm.

I also removed the top cover from the governor and flyweight section.  Everything in there is clean, no rust, moves properly and has a nice coating of oil.

I can't get any fuel to pump out of the hydraulic head into the injector lines.  I removed the injector lines from the hydraulic head and even though I have flow through the head and out the pressure relief port, nothing pumps out the injector line ports.

I removed the center plug bolt from the hydraulic head, which I believe covers the actual injector piston.  When I crank the engine with that bolt removed, I get flow out of the center port, but not pulsed flow like the pump is working, just low pressure flow like it is bypassing the pump piston through the metering scroll being pushed by the lift pump.

My feeling is that the center injector piston is probably stuck, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to access it.  I have no manuals, but have looked at some drawings on the internet.  I haven't removed the pump from the engine.  I thought perhaps I might be able to access the bottom of the injector pump from the side if I remove the lift pump, but I can't tell for sure.  Perhaps there is a cover on the other side of the pump which is against the block?

I feel if I could just access that injector pump at the lifter end and gently get it moving, like on a Cat, I'd have this thing running, but I sure can't figure out how to do that.

Appreciate any help you all can give.

Pete.

I will post the PBS lit here, it is for a WD45 diesel but will be similar.

IIRC if you take out that stud in the centre of the hydraulic head and the valvery you should be able to get a rod on the top of the plunger and feel if it is moving.  If stuck you might be able to bump it down gently.

If you have to remove the head you have to remove a stud that goes in the side of the head (faces  the back of the pump iirc).  That has a square o-ring on it.  Check that it comes out with the stud as it may not and will interfere with getting the head off.  And treat it gently as it seems like much to do with PSB pumps it is unobtanium.

And watch that little retaining clip on the bottom of the plunger.

Removing the head is easier if you make yourself the special spanner to undo the pipe nuts.  Get yourself a picture, a long socket of the right size, your angle grinder with a thin cut-off wheel and have at it.

I posted on this back when we were getting our Forty Five going.

More on PSB pumps in here 

http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Ambac/AmbacMenu1.htm

There was a comment from an injection repairer recently (might have been over at YT) to the effect that with modern diesel you should check that PSB type pumps are actually free if sitting for longer that about 6 months to avoid internal damage to unobtainable parts.

I'd worry that if your plunger is stuck up its cylinder that the spill port ought to be closed and that diesel should not be coming out the top of the head.  But I haven't checked a diagram and I hope I'm wrong!   The feel test ought to decide that.





Edited by Ian Beale - 03 Jan 2018 at 3:42pm

Just one minor point worth noting.

first page hadda come from a aussie manual...

Looks like an HD-15A and great Buy !!

Pete

PSB6A - 100EH says it has a 10 mm plunger.  Allis played tunes on HD 11 pumps in that some had 9 mm plungers and some 10 - I don't know the inside story there.

Have a look at

http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Ambac/AmbacMenu1.htm

from page 19 on to see how the internals of a PSB work

As far as I know you are in unobtanium territory now with that head as far as rebuilt.

A while back there was an outfit advertising remade or rebuilt ones for PSBs and M100s for pulling but then the PSB ones disappeared.  IIRC there is an earlier post of mine on that here somewhere and some replies.  Plus some on the injection pump saga we had getting our AC Forty Five going.

Back then I found an Ambac list of replacement heads (pdf so I don't think I can hook it on here) which lists HD5901 as a replacement for your number (HD5155A as I read it).  The one on our original pump was HD4607AR (R = rebuilt) for comparison.

Anyway unless you're lucky you're probably looking at finding a used pump that works or a diesel shop that has a hidden replacement head or at least one that is useable.

Maybe try Hector Gemme up in Canada who watches here and see what he has

Edited by Ian Beale - 13 Jan 2018 at 8:13pm

Local Fuel Inj shop shudders every time one is brought in, parts are scarce, the new turn is to try to find a inline Bosch to replace the Ambac or swap to a Roosa Master style.

It is good to have lots of good support and people who have been there before.

One of the guys on the ACMOC board suggested heating it in the oven and cooling the plunger.  I put it in Garlic Mom's oven at 350 degrees for fifteen or twenty minutes.  (She left out one batch of roasted garlic to make space.)

At first it was no dice.  I even tried the ice on the plunger end trick.  It wasn't really hot yet, though.  I could hold my hand on it momentarily before it started to burn.

I put it back in for another ten minutes.  At that point it was really too hot to touch at all.  I got Garlic Mom's BIG junk drawer screwdriver and pried between the spring coils.  It looked like it budged.  I pried some more.  There was definitely some space between the coils now, so I had worked the plunger back up some.

It took quite a while of prying it up and tapping it down with a hammer, but pretty soon, the plunger was moving as far as the sleeve would allow.  The sleeve was still REALLY stuck on the plunger though.

I reheated it a couple of times and kept working it back and forth, using various wedges to hold the sleeve in one position or another.  Another twenty minute's work and it is now working really nice.

Here's a short video of me working it by hand.  You can see the sleeve moving with the plunger, but when it hits the stop, the plunger moves the rest of the way through the sleeve.

https://youtu.be/Nhum5QYOn-Y

And here's a short video where I've used a paperclip to hold the sleeve in one position.  You can see the marks on the plunger where the sleeve was stuck.

Now my only problem is going to be the sleeve control shaft with the sheared key.

rymram, you mentioned silver soldering it, but the sleeve has a slot and the key is rectangular so it needs to rotate in relation to the shaft to say parallel with the slot.

I bet I could get away with just putting a blob of silver solder on the end and shaping it into a round plug.  As long as the plug didn't bind in the slot and didn't come off, it should hold that sleeve wherever it needs to.  The sleeve can't really put much torque on the shaft, I believe it essentially floats in there, when it isn't bound up to the plunger.

I may just try the solder blob and see what happens.  It won't wear as well as the proper system, but it'll probably last for the rest of my life.

Pete.

You probably have a good chance of getting that part in useable condition out of a dead pump.  Then you'll know it is right.

Apparently only the first photo link above worked.  The links worked in other posts, maybe my post had too many characters.  I'm going to try again in three pieces here.

Pete

Try that set of pages for the AC 45.  If yours is similar -

1.  You ought to have a timing mark on the top LHS of the flywheel housing under a squarish plate.  When you have No 1 (Fan end cylinder) about TDC you need the FPI mark lined up with that pointer.

2.  You need the marked tooth on the head lined up 1 tooth to the rear of that timing pointer.  If you have it lined up directly it seems the plunger is hydraulic locking until the distributor lines up with the injection pipe port - which doesn't sound good for the internals

3.  Then there is another timing pointer under a plate on top of the timing housing (the oil filler on an AC 45).  Which has to line up with the centre mark on the boss that holds the timing gear.  And the plunger spring wants to turn the shaft away from lining up with that mark.  You set that on the grader (blower engine) with a shaft that sticks out the front of the timing case which has a square end for a spanner and then tighten the 3 bolts as you turn the engine to get at them.  I'm not sure how you'll do that as I don't have a manual that covers  10000-on engines.  Would be in a comprehensive HD 11 engine manual if you can find one of them.

I've never been in the skew gear section so no help there.

When you do that spill valve shaft and the tang area make sure there are no tiny burrs on anything.  We had problems with throttle response from one which used to catch with the primary fuel pressure on it.  It took our very patient diesel mech son most of a day to find it.

How we got into this in the beginning?  We scored an unused short block with a supposedly reconditioned pump.  Which leaked fuel into the oil.  Because it was missing the bottom O-ring for the head.

Hope yours works

Mom and I made a trip up to Daron’s in California City Saturday.  Along the way, we delivered Chad’s tail seat Twenty Two, which he had bought at the Doug Peltzer auction and picked up a nifty little Allis Chalmers WC grader that Daron had bought.

 

Here’s a little video of the loading process.  We had plenty of help.

 

https://youtu.be/N86qi0zmyZ4

 

Daron’s last spare engine had the intact sleeve control shaft that I needed.  It was a bit crusty, but still intact and looked like it would clean up nicely.

 

 

 

 

 

First, I soaked in some P. B. Blaster for a while.  After that, I very gently tried to work the tang back and forth by hand.  I couldn’t get it to move, so I tried some small pliers, just very gently and carefully.

 

At first, I still couldn’t see or feel any movement, but after a bunch of very gentle back and forth cycles, I thought I could see just a tiny amount of movement.  I just kept patiently working it back and forth, back and forth and eventually it got a bit easier each time.  Once it was moveable by finger pressure, I knew I had it made.

 

Once I was confident that the tang would free up enough to float freely, I started soaking and spraying the sleeve and shaft.  They moved, but were very, very stiff.

 

I soaked and worked them many cycles, but it was apparent that they weren’t going to come free enough to allow the governor to work.

 

I decided I’d better remove the nut and control arm from the splines and try to work the shaft out of the sleeve.  The nut and control arm came off the shaft reasonably easily.

 

With them out of the way, I was able to carefully use two vice grips to rotate the shaft within the sleeve while pulling them apart.

 

That shaft fought me all the way until the last micron.  It took a long time and a lot of working, rotating and pulling, but they finally came apart.

 

 

Of course the shaft and bore looked clean and shiny and as soon as they parted, they slid back together and worked effortlessly.  These are apparently a close enough fit that just a few molecules of rust are enough to create a bind.

 

Once everything was clean and moving freely, I reassembled the shaft, sleeve, arm, nut and lock.

 

Now, to remove the broken pump drive collar from the good hydraulic head and swap it with the good one from Daron’s donor pump.

 

The donor pump plunger was frozen in its bore, apparently partially compressed.  Mom helped me and we tried to compress the spring and remove the valve keepers from the head, but there wasn’t quite enough room to get them fished out.

 

I didn’t want to damage the drive collar, as I knew the other one was broken.  I tried wedging chisels in the spring coils to push the plunger out, but it wouldn’t budge.  Knowing this plunger and hydraulic head were no good, I finally just snapped the end off the plunger to get the spring and keepers out of the way.

 

 

Here are some photos of the drive collar installed on the good hydraulic head.  The collar has three flats and one curved side to match the pump plunger, meaning as long as it is installed with the right side up, the plunger will be timed to the drive gear properly.

 

 

 

 

It was easy work reinstalling the spring and retainers.

 

 

I timed the hydraulic head to the drive sleeve timing mark, following the instructions so that when the sleeve hash mark aligned with the pointer the timing tooth on the hydraulic head gear was one tooth to the right of the timing mark on the pump body.

 

Here is the completed pump, ready for installation on the tractor.

 

 

 

The rest of the installation was pretty quick and easy.  Just hang the pump then tighten down the three flange nuts.  I already had the engine set with the No. 1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke.

 

After that, slip the timing gear in, then use the pump shaft nut to rotate the pump until the hydraulic head drive gear had the marked tooth one tooth to the right of the timing mark.  Hold it there and tighten down the three timing gear to pump drive flange retaining nuts, which locks the gear in relation to the pump drive flange.

 

Hook up all the fuel lines and it was ready to go.  I cranked the engine with the injector lines off until it primed up and pumped some fuel out of the injector supply ports.  Hopefully any dirt or grit in there would get pumped overboard.  It didn’t take long to have nice flow from all six ports.

 

I reconnected the injection lines and gave it a spin.  Here’s a video with me tightening the lines, then the first start and a bit of a run.

 

https://youtu.be/k6xtloV71N0

 

I still have several problems.  The suction line from the fuel tank has leaks and restrictions, so it is sucking air.  I believe the return line must have obstructions too, because I could see air bubbles coming from several bad places and loose connections on a few of the return lines to the filter manifold.

 

The governor also seemed to want to maintain the engine at a high idle.  I concluded that I likely didn’t index the arm correctly on the sleeve control shaft.  I think if it was a tooth off on the spline, the governor would want to maintain the wrong speeds.  I could control the engine speed by manually manipulating the sleeve control shaft (I had the shut off cover removed), but with the fuel supply problems, I couldn’t really run it long enough and consistently enough to diagnose.

 

I’m going to run new lines from the tank (which is up in front of the operator’s station) back to the pump, eliminating any restrictions and leaks, next work session.  (Hopefully next weekend).

 

I have taken a big step in resurrecting this tractor, mostly because of the help I received here.

 

Thank you all and I’ll keep you posted as things progress.

 

Pete.

More Progress, More Questions.

 

I made more progress this weekend, but have more questions.

 

The first order of business was the last remaining issue with the PSB pump.  The governor seemed to work like on a generator set, not a tractor.  It maintained high idle, no matter where the throttle lever was positioned.

 

I knew it was working because if the throttle lever was put in the idle position, the governor would just slightly reduce engine speed, but as soon as the throttle lever was moved off the stop, the governor would increase engine speed again, but not overspeed the engine.

 

I decided to take apart the governor on Daron’s spare pump first, to learn how the mechanism works and hopefully learn something that would help diagnose the one on the tractor.  Here’s another situation where having Daron as a friend with lots of spare stuff really pays off!

 

As with most stuff on this American Bosch stuff, the system is easy to disassemble and pretty simple from an engineering sense, too.  Makes reverse engineering in the field pretty nice!

 

The governor separates from the pump by unscrewing five bolts, then just pulling the governor housing from the pump housing.

 

Here’s a view of the pump housing with flyweights.

 

 

Here’s a view of the top of the governor housing showing the sleeve meter control rod attachment point and idle and power setting adjustments.

 

 

And here’s the governor housing, with the collar upon which the flyweights act.

 

 

You can see the collar and hollow shaft with the governor springs behind.  There are a couple nested springs which are inserted into the governor housing under a round cover.  The springs press on the shaft attached to the collar.

 

You can also see the frame which the hollow shaft engages.  The frame has a pivot on the bottom and the attachment for the sleeve meter control shaft at the top.  Inside the housing on the right of the picture you can also see a copper colored spring which surrounds the throttle control shaft.

 

The throttle shaft engages a pivot on the bottom of the frame.  In a balanced state, centrifugal force of the rotating governor shaft pushes the flyweights out, the flyweights push on the collar in this picture, compressing the governor springs at the back of the shaft.  As the collar moves back and forth, it move the frame, the frame pulls the sleeve meter control shaft, which injects more or less fuel.

 

Engine speed is maintained at the point that the centrifugal force of the flyweights exactly balances the strength of the springs at the back of the shaft.  If the engine experiences more load, the rotational speed will slow, centrifugal force on the flyweights will decrease but the springs will maintain constant pressure, meaning the frame will get pushed away from the back of the governor housing.  This action will move the sleeve metering control rod, meaning more fuel will be injected, meaning more power will be created, engine speed will increase, increasing centrifugal force on the flyweights and the system will come back into balance, once again at the same set engine speed.

 

If a load is removed from the engine, speed increases, the flyweights push out, the frame moves into the housing, sleeve meter reduces fuel injected, power goes down, engine speed goes down and the system once again seeks balance at the same set engine speed.

 

The throttle on this governor is interesting in that it operates by moving the pivot point of the bottom of the frame.  Since the flyweight pressure and spring pressure will always seek to balance each other and opening the throttle moves the pivot point at the bottom of the frame, the top of the frame will be pivoted in the opposite direction of the pivot point movement.

 

Opening the throttle moves the bottom pivot point slightly towards the rear of the governor housing, meaning in a balanced state, the top of the frame will move slightly away from the governor housing.  This movement causes the sleeve meter control rod to move away from the governor housing, meaning more fuel is injected, meaning that more power and more engine speed will be selected for a given balance state of the governor system.

 

From all this deduction process and knowing that the pump on this tractor had sat for years exposed to the elements, I thought that perhaps the problem with the governor on the tractor was that one flyweight was stiff or frozen on its pivot.  That would only apply half the centrifugal force to the collar against the governor springs and theoretically, should result in the governor trying to maintain way to high an engine speed.  The only way to know is to remove the governor on the tractor and take a look.

 

Here’s a photo of the flyweights on the tractor.

 

 

And here’s a short video.

 

https://youtu.be/AnZI6iIJxXI

 

Obviously they are nice and free, so the governor weights aren’t the problem.  I spent some time looking at and comparing the two governors.  They were nearly identical and for a while I couldn’t figure out why the tractor one didn’t work.

 

After a bit of comparing and experimenting, I figured out that the tractor throttle linkage wasn’t working right.  When the throttle shaft on Daron’s was moved, it moved the bottom of the frame visibly back and forth and I could feel a difference in the spring pressure on the sleeve meter control rod at the top of the frame.

 

When I moved the throttle shaft on the tractor governor, the frame barely moved at all and I really couldn’t detect a difference in sleeve meter control rod pressure.

 

Here’s a short video showing the two moving.  The tractor one is a little hard to see because of the dark oil in there, but I think you can make it out.

 

https://youtu.be/ks0wOorcaVY

 

I think I found the problem.  I thought about disassembling the tractor governor housing and swapping parts or repairing, but decided to save that project for another day.

 

Comparing the markings on the two pumps, it looks like the tractor is set for an idle speed of 600 RPM and high idle of 2,200 RPM.  Daron’s governor is set for an idle speed of 650 RPM and high idle of 2,600 RPM.  The idle speed difference is probably O. K.  The high idle difference is more significant and would result in significantly more horsepower than this system is designed for.  While I have this governor on here, I’ll have to be careful about engine top speeds.

 

Here are photos of the two number plates.

 

 

 

 

Eventually I’ll either repair the tractor governor or figure out how to adjust Daron’s to bring the high idle RPM back down to 2,200.  For now, I’ll just be careful.

 

Here is a photo of Daron’s governor installed on the tractor.

 

 

And here’s a little video of the engine running with the new governor.  I didn’t check this video until this morning, so the audio isn’t great because of the radiator fan wind noise, but you can see and sort of hear what is going on.  I’m really happy with the overall control of the engine now.  I think I’ve completed the injection pump part of the fuel system work.

 

https://youtu.be/jmBVGGDxazE

 

Now that I’ve got the injection pump basically working, I started work on diagnosing a miss.  One cylinder is clearly not firing, but I don’t really have any puffs of smoke, so I suspect that my dirty field work on the injection pump has probably let a piece of grit or something into one of the injectors.

 

Here’s a video from the top of the engine with it running a bit above low idle.  I cut out several injectors in turn by cracking the lines at each.  Cylinder number two appears to be the one which caused no change in the engine when the line was cracked.

 

https://youtu.be/KapJ6AgSNVk

 

I feel I’m getting good clean flow and a good amount (at least similar to the other injectors) at cylinder number 2.  I assume that means this injector is bad and needs to be swapped, rebuilt or repaired.

 

Here is a photo of the injector in question.

 

 

Can someone help out with information about those injectors?  I assume the removal process is:

 

1.    Clean the top of the head.

2.    Remove the supply line and return line.

3.    Unscrew the two hold down nuts.

4.    Pry the injector out of the bore.

 

Are there any tips or tricks?  Does anyone know about these injectors, can they be field cleaned or repaired, or do they just have to be replaced?  I’ve worked on International injectors from the late 1940’s.  Those can be completely disassembled and cleaned with simple hand tools.  I don’t imagine these will be that easy.

 

Does anyone know where I could get a new or rebuilt injector?  How would I go about finding the specifications or part numbers on this one to begin the search?

 

While I was up here and had the engine running for some time, I noticed another missing piece.  Note the gap between the turbocharger impeller housing and the exhaust elbow.  It looks like there is probably a collector ring missing.

 

 

 

 

I see several about 3/8” bolt holes in the impeller housing.  The way the exhaust elbow is supported on the manifold casting, it can’t be that it has shifted outward, there needs to be a small piece to fill the gap there.  I think I can run it as is if I have to, although I might not put the hood on to capture all that hot exhaust around the engine.

 

I did see a tag on the turbocharger, but I don’t know that these numbers will be of any help.

 

 

Does anyone have any ideas about how to figure out what piece is missing and locate a replacement?

 

Since I’ve got the engine basically functioning, albeit on only five cylinders for the moment, it was time to turn my attention to other systems.  The hydraulic pump had been removed, but did come with the tractor.  It is mounted to the side of the engine and belt driven by two V-belts off the crank pulley.  Without the pump installed, I can’t fill the hydraulic tank.  It appears that the transmission shares the hydraulic fluid with the rest of the tractor, so I can’t test the transmission without reinstalling the pump.

 

I also can’t test anything because all of the controls in the operator’s station are frozen solid.  I decided to attack freeing up the controls first.  With the open station, you’d think that would be easy, but this thing is constructed of a half inch steel tub with a little square cockpit with the steering wheel and dash in front, a control stand on each side of a fairly narrow seat and the hydraulic tank and other apparatus behind the driver’s back.  When sitting in the seat, the sides of the frame are about halfway between the driver’s elbows and shoulders.

 

There isn’t much room and all the linkages and controls are down in the bottom.  The floor plates had already been removed (but also came with the tractor).  The only way any work could be accomplished was by standing on my head.

 

The controls consist of a parking brake and transmission control on the driver’s left and two hydraulic control levers, a transmission range selector and a diverter plunger on the driver’s right and air brake pedals on the floor.  Nothing moved.

 

To top that off, the first part of the project was replacement of the rotten fuel lines, which attached to the front fuel tank way down in the bottom front of the cockpit, about a foot below the floor plates.

 

Garlic Mom was a bit concerned when she came out to check on me and saw this.

 

 

 

 

 

It took a lot of grunting and some choice words and probably ten minutes, but I was able to wiggle myself into and out of that cockpit.

 

Here are some photos of the various controls.  I have removed the seat, control covers and anything else I could to facilitate access.

This is the parking brake and transmission control.  The transmission control provides forward or reverse in three speeds.  The control cover has a gated path through which neutral lock is centered and away from the driver, the first set of forward/reverse slots is low, middle set is intermediate and closest set to the driver is high.

 

You can see from the below photo that the linkage works by a forward reverse control rod operating a crossover shaft with a push-pull rod back to a transmission valve.  The side to side control rod operates off the side of the lever to a sleeve on the crossover shaft with another push-pull rod back to another valve on the transmission.

 

 

Here are the right side controls, two hydraulic control levers, transmission range selector and plunger to diver one control from tilt to blade face angle.

 

 

Here are the brake pedals.  You can see the fuel tank connections down below the pedals.

 

 

Garlic Mom’s pictures were taken as I was deep in the bottom changing those two hoses.

 

After I got the fuel lines fixed up, most of the other controls freed up surprisingly easily.  Each one only took some shots of P. B. Blaster and some vigorous jerking back and forth of the control to eventually begin moving.

 

I did have to stand on my head with the rosebud to heat that power brake pedal shaft.  It took several cycles, but eventually even that freed up.  It is pretty exciting using the rosebud down there around all the accumulated dirt soaked with fuel and hydraulic fluid while standing on your head and having to wiggle in and out over a ten minute period.  I used lots of water bottles putting out small fires.

 

The other exception to the freeing process was the two hydraulic controls.  They each worked a push-pull rod which went up behind the driver’s head to a bell crank which worked valves on top of the hydraulic tank.

 

The levers themselves freed up nicely, but the bell cranks didn’t want to pivot.  Here’s a phot of the control valves.  The bell cranks and their mounting pad have already been removed to the left side of the picture.

 

 

Those bell cranks had sat under the louvered cover and accumulated rain and mist for years and they didn’t want to move.

 

I heated them with the rosebud and eventually they yielded.  I was surprised that each had a needle bearing and set of seals.  I was also surprised that there was no grease zerk to service the bearings.  I guess they were supposed to be sealed for life.  I’ll have to go to Applied Industrial Technology this week to match the bearings and seals.

 

 

 

 

Next work session I’ll reinstall the bell cranks with new bearings and seals and all controls should be operable.

 

I’ll need to figure out the hydraulic pump connections.  The pump has two supply connections and two output connections.  The outputs split at a sort of relief valve.  This wheel dozer uses the hydraulic pump to lift and tilt the blade and also has hydraulic steering.  I assume that the relief valve split on the outputs is probably really a priority valve to supply the steering over the blade controls.

 

I can only see one system pressure connection and one supply from the tank on the loader, though.  I can see the steering system connections at the wheel and trace them down to where they disappear inside a frame rail.  I don’t see the other end terminating near the pump, though.  Next work session I’ll have to trace those or try blowing air from the steering wheel end to find the ends of those steering lines.

 

Once I can connect the pump and fill the hydraulic tank, I can see if this thing will move and maybe even lift the blade.

 

Progress, but in small steps and with many questions.

 

Pete.