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wd front end loader

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E_O_09 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote E_O_09 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: wd front end loader
    Posted: 12 May 2010 at 4:32pm

How does a loader on a wd work?  Im helping some family get it put on a wd.  Im pretty sure its a freeman loader, its got an allis chalmers tag on it.  Its got about 3 inch tubes for the frame.  Its a trip bucket.  We have the frame attached on and everything hooked up to the tractor.  It has 2 lift cylinders on the sides that have hydrolic hoses that run together and hook up to the remote on the back of the tractor.  How do you get the thing to lift?  I thought there might be a lever to control that remote, but I can't find one.  I tried working the lever opposite to the throtle, but that still just raises and lowers the back arms.  Does the pump need to be on a diffrent setting?  What am I missing here? Thanks for the help!

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Dave(inMA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave(inMA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 4:35pm
E_O_09, I have a similar loader on my WD45. I know it's not plumbed as you describe. I can look tomorrow and let you know.
WC, C, CA, G, D14, WD45
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Goose View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goose Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 4:37pm
E_O_09,
 
The hydraulic hoses that go to the snap coupler arms need to be switched to your hydraulic rams that operate the bucket.  The hoses should have quick-disconnect fittings on the end of them.


Edited by Goose - 12 May 2010 at 4:38pm
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E_O_09 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote E_O_09 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 4:37pm
there is just 2 hoses that come off the cylinders and run to a tee.  Then that one line runs to the back remote right under the seat.  Theres no return lines or anything. 
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E_O_09 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote E_O_09 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 4:39pm
ok, that makes sense.  I thought they may have went to the rear remote.  Where will those sc lift arms disconect at? the pump?
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Dave(inMA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave(inMA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 4:43pm
Hmmm - both the FEL and the SC arms are working at the same time on my '45. Not sure how this was set up as I mentioned above, but I THINK that the line to the SC cylinders also runs to the FEL cylinders - he who installed it must have plumbed a tee into the original line from the pump to the SC cylinders. I can take a look tomorrow and confirm.
WC, C, CA, G, D14, WD45
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Brook Allis Man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brook Allis Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 6:12pm
 On my 1949 wd with a wd9 freeman loader, there is a hydralic coupler under the seat. It gets its hydralic presure from the pump, the lift arms are plumped into the pump. As far as why the loader armes are not lifting is that they have air in them. also move the lever on the left side of Quadrent watch on side of hydralic pump and make sure linkage is moveing . Also make sure hydralic resovor is full of oil! Icannot spell tonite Old timers setting in!  Hope this helps Don in Indiana
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigfish_Oh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 6:44pm
DO NOT OVERFILL YOUR HYDRAULIC FLUID, yes I am shouting and you really don't want to know why.
1941 WC sat for 29 years,started & dynoed 27 h.p.
1957 WD45 Grandpa bought new,factory p.s.,added wfe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 6:49pm
E when the lift arms are up, check your hydraulic fluid level ( dipstick inside the left frame rail just in front of the left rear tire.  If you have enough fluid, the lift arms will extend and then the loader will go up. Unless you replumb the tractor like I did there is no way to separate the lift arms from the remote hook up. The lever that operates the lift arms is also the lever that raises the loader.  Charlie
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx,1938 B2xx, 1950 WD, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote j.w.freck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 7:43pm
if you have a heavy 3 point hitch on the tractor,and the rear lift arms are down the loader will not respond till the rear lift runs its cycle.also sounds like you need to bleed the air out of theloader cylinders.mine is plumbed into the tractor hyde.system on the right side out of the holding valve.also make sure your hyd.sys.is full and the pump is set up properly..
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John (C-IL) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote John (C-IL) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 7:45pm

My loader is plumbed the same as yours. You may want to check that the couplers are compatible. The one of the tractor should have the little tit on it as well as the one on the hose from the loader cylinders. If the coupler on the loader hose just has a ball in it it probably won't work because the coupler stop isn't opening. Clear, right?



Edited by John (C-IL) - 12 May 2010 at 7:47pm
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mdm1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdm1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 7:58pm
On my wd45 the rear rams had to lift all the way before the loader would go up I assume because the rear was lighter and offered less resistance.  The loader goes up under hydraulics and will come down by gravity that is why you only have one hose to each cylinder. The whole system is not too efficient. I have since replumbed it all with a splitter valve so I can use either the loader or the rear rams. As mentioned if you overfill the resevoir you will have one big mess.  Hope this helps somewhat. Mike
Old enough to use age as an excuse! 1955 WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, #3 sickle mower Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jacob (WI,ND) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 8:11pm
Originally posted by mdm1 mdm1 wrote:

I have since replumbed it all with a splitter valve so I can use either the loader or the rear rams.  Mike

Yep, this is easy to do, we did something similar to this on Dad's D15 II.
Just put a ball valve on the rear outlet, where the loader plugs into.  If you want to just use the rear (3 point with a blade for example) raise the loader up off the ground.  Then turn off the valve.  Then you can use the rear arms without the loader moving.  At the end of the day, unhook the blade (for example), turn the valve back on, and lower the bucket.  Done and done.
Only downside to this is its not really possible to use the loader with something (like a blade) on the back.  But we are usually only using one end of the tractor or the other, so it's ok.
Hope this helps, it's really quite simple.
Jacob Swanson
1948 C "Lil' Allis" No. 53115
1949 C "Frank" No. 78082
1941 WC "Molly" No. 103706
1950 WD "Wayne" No. 46907
1955 WD45 "Daisy" No. 208062
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 8:16pm
John made a good point. Evidently there are hydraulic couplings that will hook up together but will not let oil pass. Both the male and female need to be of the same style. You should not need to bleed the cylinders. If you raise it up and down a few times the air will be gone. I have replumbed mine also with a 3 way valve on top of the Allis hold valve. I have one position for the loader, one for the lift arms and one for the remote. I also added a set of hydraulic couplings right on the 3way to hook the loader to. It makes removing the cylinders very easy. I push them all the way down when the cylinder  is disconnected from the subframe and then disconnect the hose and leave them with the loader .
 LIFT arms should be UP and loader should be Down when checking fluid level at the dipstick.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 12 May 2010 at 8:18pm
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx,1938 B2xx, 1950 WD, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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E_O_09 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote E_O_09 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2010 at 9:57pm
thanks to everyone.  we got it fixed.  you guys are so helpful!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote John (C-IL) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2010 at 7:49am
Originally posted by E_O_09 E_O_09 wrote:

thanks to everyone.  we got it fixed.  you guys are so helpful!
 
That's great, but what was the solution? Enquiring minds need to know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote E_O_09 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2010 at 2:43pm
My uncle fiddled with the pump and turned a bolt in.  Now it raises the bucket after the rear sc arms are raised.  Thanks again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave(inMA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2010 at 3:30pm
I checked the WD9 loader on my WD45 today. The line to the SC arms does have a tee plumbed into it with a quick connect coupler attached. In theory I can disconnect the hydraulic line to the FEL cylinders and take the FEL off the tractor - looks pretty straightforward as long as the quick connect coupler cooperates!
WC, C, CA, G, D14, WD45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2010 at 5:21pm
Dave, The couplers should be no problem as long as there is no pressure on the cylinder. If you take the loader off, pull the pin out of the bottom of the cylinder and with the hydraulic control lever down, push the cylinder all the way closed. This prevents the cylinder rod from rusting.  Then go ahead and uncouple the hose.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx,1938 B2xx, 1950 WD, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave(inMA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2010 at 5:26pm
Sounds like a plan to me! Thanks much.
WC, C, CA, G, D14, WD45
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