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New member..grandfather's HD5 |
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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Posted: 01 Dec 2012 at 10:16am |
Hello all!
Finally after many years my dad is letting go of his father's 1955 HD5. This was the last small grading machine he bought new for his company in 1955. Basically the machine has probably 2000 total hours on it, undercarriage is like new, clutches good, motor great, hydraulics great. The only issue is it has sat and has had no TLC. I was probably the last person to change the oil 30 years ago and probably has a total of 15 hours on it since then. So, I'm having it shipped from CT to TN and I'll be getting it this week. I have work to do with it(light) around my new house and I want to do some over all maintenance. Problem is I don't know where to get filters. Oil, air, fuel...where o where can I find them? My goal is to change oils, filters, coolant, grease rollers, idler, put oil in all the points and once I'm done with the final grading around my house I want to take her in the shop and restore her. One issue right now is my dad took the two huge 6v out and replaced with a 12v 800CCA battery. The generator does not work and I'd like to get that rebuild if possible but can I still use the 12v battery or is that generator designed for the two huge 6v batteries? Also, it needs a seat and arm rests. Is this something I should just build and wrap myself with some sort of covering? Final drives do leak and one track adjustor spring is frozen...not sure what kind of job this entails but will probably have to wait for some real time to fix. It will run fine but have to avoid deep sand, mud turning. Any advice would be much appreciated as I think I'll need plenty in the near future. TY |
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41549 |
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It will start fine on one 12V battery with no problem . the starter will draw over 1200 A but a large capacity modern 12 V battery will supply enough to start it . I have been using this for 20 or more years .
As far as generator finding a good cutout relay is the main problem and not the generator . I changed out the generator to a 10SI alternator but had to make my own front pulley from a cast iron pulley from a alternator from 70 series GM truck and opening up belt area to accept a wider belt. The generator is a 12 V and does not care what is down line as long as it accepts 12 V. Rollers , front idler, and top roller all take oil and not grease to lube the Timken bearings, they are not gun grease. Oil filter and the fuel filter should have the number of the filter needed stamped into the cover plate. I used filters from early Chrysler product when I could not find the Fram filters i needed. The battery box covers or arm rests are something you will have to make yourself. I raised the seat platform about 4" to make it easier to fit into position for comfort when operating. I also built a plywood box about 2" high and attached to the metal plates over battery boxes. Over the years these deteriorated so i just use plain metal plates now for covers. I have a couple of photo-copies of the HD5 manual left to sell if you do not have the manual . cover service and repair of full machine, from the 2-71 engine to the track and tractor itself.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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So the generator cannot be rebuilt?
What is the easiest fix for this...what you did with the GM alternator? Not sure I can fab that up...? My dad said there was some type of nozzle to oil the rollers. What type of oil do you use in those if you don't use grease? 50wt or 80/90 gear oil? What is the easiest way to add it to the rollers? As far as oils and coolant. I would use fleetcharge for the coolant. Are there any particular oils that I can run that are better than straight 30 wt for the motor? How about transmission? Any new improved oil I can run? The final drives weep. My dad has run 80/90 in them but pulls it out when he is not using it which is pretty much all the time. Is there an additive or something(brake fluid, lucas) that will swell the seal and seal it up? I remember the seals on those Allis's were always problematic. I think it led to the downfall of the 41..I know at least the larger allis's we had all had issues. If there are any "modern/better" things I should add as far as any fluids please advise. I pretty much don't have access to the good old shops I used when I lived in the North East. I'm pretty much stuck with the auto stores, walmart, northern tool. Have you got working guages? I'd like to get all the guages working properly but I'm at a loss as to what I can replace them with, sending units etc...? I may be interested in the books, my dad says he has all the old books but he cannot find them right now. I'll let you know b/c I'm sure I'll need them. |
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darrel in ND
Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8630 |
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Heron, sounds like you got yourself a little jewel. I love them little five's. As far as your generator goes, it can be made to work, and may very well work now, just has a bad voltage regulator, or cut out relay as coke says, just that an alternator is a better deal. Myself, for originality sake, I would probably stick with the generator. As far as oil additives, I like lucas, and add it to about everything. There are a lot of good informants on this site, so be patient and you'll get lots of info. Darrel
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41549 |
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The generator will work fine -if, all components are there . I was using my machine with lights and it would pull down battery and later the cutout relay went bad so as i had alternator here it was easier to put that on at no cost/.
I use a 15/40 Rotella oil in engine, transmission can use SAE 50 or a oil with a 1200 SSU rating or 85/120 gear oil . Final drives also a 90/120 gear oil. As your temp range there is not as extreme as it is here in MN the heavier weight should work. On the rollers and under carriage there is a plug on the center of the retaining cap remove that and insert a small tube into center of roller then pump in oil form a grease gun like pump until it flows out around the tube - then replace plug. Leaks from the final drive area can be a problem - as can the lube in the outboard bearing on the axle shaft (bearing bolted to truck frame). Early axles were drilled to allow oil to flow to this bearing . I have seen many machines where a standard grease zerk has been added to this bearing for lube.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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dadsdozerhd5b
Orange Level Joined: 27 Sep 2009 Location: lansdale pa. Points: 527 |
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i have been using john deere corn head grease for the rollers as it is 00 grade grease i believe. it flows very easily and is almost a liquid and have had no problems. it does not leak like the oil does. i have been running 15w40 engine oil and 80w90 gear oil. the biggest thing is to keep them full. i agree with coke about the outboard bearing, i put grease fittings in them after destroying an axle from no lube and i had the newer axles in to allow the oil out to the bearings. they got dirt in them and clogged the passages. one thing to look out for is mice getting into the steering clutch compartment either through the lower drain plug hole or they chew through the rubber boot that seals the brake rod. nothing ruins a day more that frozer steering clutches. post aome pics once you get it. good luck and happy dozing!
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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First off, sorry for all the questions. I'm kind of in a hurry as I am in the process of building a house and if we don't get some gravel in the driveway it is going to get muddy. I have a 42hp tractor with FEL and backhoe but it does not weigh enough to cut and I need to box out around this house up to 16" in the front in order to get gravel in and have pitch away from the house. So, I'm going to try to get on this maintenance ASAP so I will not worry like crazy once I start using the dozer some. I'm not planning on working the old girl hard but just nice and slow. I probably have a day of dozing to do if all goes well. I just hate to use it and then find out later I messed something up during the course of boxing out the driveway. Onward...
Is it worth fixing the outer final drive seals if they will just leak again? In other words has there been any improvement in the final drive seals over the years. Again, this is a 55 so it's the last year they made them(I think). I need to know more about the zerks and where/how to put them in the outer bearings. Something I'd like to do right away. As far as oil I'm planning on using the 15/40 and the 80/90 gear oil since I can find it anywhere. Have any of you had issues with the spring pack on the track adjustor freezing up. My dad said it happened over 35 years ago and it would throw a track if you turned hard in deep sand or mud but as long as you go easy it is fine. Any easy way to fix this? I imagine I need torches and more which I don't have access to anymore. Never heard of the John Deere CORN OIL? Only place to get it is John Deer I suspect? Sounds like the best option for the rollers. Not sure on how to put the oil in the rollers. I have one of those oil suction things you use to pull oil out of a sump..Has a plastic hose on it...Is that what I use to put oil in? I'm still a bit concerned about where I'm going to get all and I mean all the filters. Poor thing has not had a new filter in 30 years..again it has not been run much at all but old is still old. What do you guys think of literally draining all the oil and putting a couple gallons of Marvel Mystery oil in and letting it warm up on that and then drain it back out..just to clean it up a little on the inside..? How about seats? I looked at some at Northern Tool today. I'd like to go original but even my dad said he never liked the stock seats and said they could always have been about 6" higher. Has anyone had experience retrofitting a "newer" seat and if so which type? Now, on to batteries. My dad just got a 850CCA Deka battery for it. Is this adequate? I really want to make this dozer to where it's not a hassle every time I go to start it. What is the best way to set it up so it's easy, I can get the guages going again or get new ones. I'm just not sure if the Generator is designed to charge the newer 12V battery. About the fuel filter system; can I just buy a filter head and bypass the old stuff and add a Cat 2 micron to the setup. I've done this on my diesel pickups and it works flawlessly and the filters seperate water and are cheap. (01749 I think, $17). I'm looking forward to having this one thing from my grandfather. Other than this I just have a harmonica so it means a lot. I'm hoping my two young boys will jump on board with learning to wrench on this much like I did growing up with heavy equipment everywhere. I'd rather see them doing this then playing video games like every other kid now a days. I'll get pictures up as soon as I get it. Just awaiting the dispatcher to call me regarding pickup on Monday in CT. Thanks for all the replies fellas! |
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41549 |
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I used a bucket seat from a Suburban for many years , vinyl cover and high back - put a 4" lift under it . Then had a Ford seat for a while from van. Now have a another botten seat from Northern .
Changing the seals is a job as the truck frame has to come off or the frame cut near the rear bearing . On a dozer it isn't as hard as it is on HD5G loader . The grease he is talking about corn head grease is a #00 or #000 semi-fluid grease. You would use a standard grease gun filled with this and a tube small enough to fit inside hole in roller when the plug is removed- You then run pipe or tube into center of roller and pump in fluid until it comes out around tube . the battery should be fine in that size - remember way back a high amp battery was large size - they have gotten smaller and more power from batteries with new technology . No need to run clean up solution through engine - just run good oil and change it. If you look back through this listing of posts you will also find a lot of information on the HD5 as it is a popular post . The HD6 has the same track, sprockets, rollers, seals in the udrcarriage. One thing is to be sure the leak on seals is not from loose sprocket as you can be in for big problems down the line if As far as outboard bearing there are a couple ways to get grease to it, there is a flat spot on the housing where a grease zerk can be drilled and tapped into or the outer cover can be drilled and tapped but a guard needs to be welder on to protect the zerk Edited by Coke-in-MN - 01 Dec 2012 at 9:11pm |
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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darrel in ND
Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8630 |
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The John Deere grease is "CORN HEAD GREASE." Not to be confused with corn oil. That does sound to me like a pretty good idea. As far as the battery, the generator will charge the one big 12 volt battery just as easily as 2 sixes in a series if (as coke says) all of the components are functional. Oh, the John Deere grease would have to be bought at a John deere dealer. Darrel
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41549 |
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couple filter ideas
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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The concerns you have about your grandfathers HD5 are common and have been covered in the past on this forum. There was considerable discussion about the frozen track adjusters. If you need to tighten the chain to get work done now there are several ways to avoid throwing the chain. You can install shims between the yoke and the front idler bracket, you can raise the support roller or lower the truck rollers with shims. I am curious about the cost of shipping the HD5 a long distance. I have found machines I would like but I didn't consider them because of shipping. Did you find a reasonable long distance shipper?
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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Hartford CT to Chattanooga TN about 1350. Yes, my dad said the same thing about the shims. It's been so long since I've even seen the dozer that once I get it I'll have a look and see what I am able to do. I lack the tools that I had access to 30 years ago so it may be more of a challenge to do the heavier stuff with this machine.
As far as the rear seals is there any additive that would help with the seal weeping? At least for now until I can really go thru and fix it up. My plan is to run 85/90 gear oil in it but is there anything better in this situation. Not sure where to get a straight 50wt oil in my area. |
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41549 |
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From just sitting static for a long time the seals may weep , it depends if the boots on the seal spring area is damaged or what else might be wrong. The seal itself is 2 brass plates which are held together by a spring plate that is enclosed by a rubber boot. This assembly is bonded to the seal base and held in place with 3 dowel pins.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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I've been trying to find some NON GL5 gear oil around me..none. I've read the 80/90 has too many additives and that it can harm internals.
Are there readily available oils I can use in the dozer or do I need to order 50wt? I think the dozer calls for 50 wt in everything except hydraulic and motor...right? Can I use the universal tractor...transmission/hydraulic for the hydraulics? Not sure why the seals leak but I will find out. |
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41549 |
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I have been using the 90/120 in everything except trany . think the Universal fluid might be a little thing for the trany but it might work or add something like STP to it to make it cling better.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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Where do you get the 90/120? I've looked locally and none of the 80/90 wt says it's yellow metal safe. Cannot find the 90/120 anywhere.
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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Here is a picture of the outboard seal from my HD6G. Somethin got in there and cut the boot.
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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Wow, I definitely need to check them when I get the 5. I have never seen them apart on any of our old dozers.
Edited by heron - 02 Dec 2012 at 6:38pm |
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dadsdozerhd5b
Orange Level Joined: 27 Sep 2009 Location: lansdale pa. Points: 527 |
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depending what brackets you have on the dozer rear pivot, installing the grease zerk for the outboard bearing could be easy or a little removal. once you get it, post some pics and we can advise. i had the rear pivot off to change the axle and drilled a hole to access the zerk without removing the dozer pivot. there were several designs so a pic is worth a thousand words. i will find my roller grease adapter and post a pic. the air filter is oil bath and fuel and oil filters readily available.
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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Heron
I sugest that when you get the HD5 home you check that everything that needs oil or greese has it. Then use the machine. Do not be too quict to take it appart because replacement parts take time to find. When you get a parts book look at the seal assembly. The AC seals are like a clutch with 2 lubricated steel rings that try to keep the oil inside. The boot covers the spring assembly. The spring assembly is like the pressure plate on a clutch. I understand you were thinking of an automotive crankshaft or wheel bearing seal when you asked about swelling the seals. Use your machine. Check the lubrication often. The parts you have to repair will become apparent. Post pictures. Good luck |
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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Yes, my plan is to get the essential oils and filters changed. Once I do all that I'll work it a bit and see what I think. The rear seal and the frozen left idler are not something I can tackle right now as I'm in the middle of building a house. I want to avoid running it until I know for sure all is well. Talked with my dad last night and from his memory the transmission fluid has never been changed. I have to find some 50 wt for that and some MT-1 80/90 for the final drives. Not sure about what to use for hydraulic yet but I'd like to change that also. He did tell me the serial number was 27578 and from what I've read they only produced 29K of these machines.
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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When you deal with hydraulic oil try to empty the hydraulic tank because over the years there is probably a lot of condensation and dirt in the bottom of the tank. I have an electric pump from an old pressure washer with a filter on the output. The pump input is a hose that I can use like a vacuum cleaner in the bottom of the tank. You can reuse the oil if you allow the dirt and water to settle out.
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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On the roller oil/grease. I cannot find any corn head grease or 00 grease in my area. There is a Dynalife L-e but if I put that in there without washing out the roller there could be compatibility issues from what I was told from a tech.
So, what is the next best thing as I will be checking the rollers this weekend. I'd like to have something ready to go to fill them up with even though I don't have the device to load them with as my dad cannot find the "tube" they used many decades ago. My plan is to change out the final drive to GL1 mineral base gear oil and use it in the transmission also as an oil person told me today it's the same thing as the 50wt motor oil that was spec'd for the machine in the 50's. Not to mention the GL1 is less expensive. The same oil guy suggested an 46wt hydraulic...thoughts? How about direct filter numbers so I can pick them up on my way to the dozer? Is the PH8A a direct replacement? It's been so long since I worked on that dozer I forgot how all the filters are situated. How about fuel filter...anyone have a number or is it the C3 that Coke has pictured? Dozer will be here on Thursday morning. I'd like to literally drop the oil and coolant right away and have the filters ready to go right on without having to run around at that point. Can anyone give me some exact numbers I can source at the auto parts store? I did order some Corn Head Grease online so I should be set with the rollers...now just have to figure out how to get it in there...guess grease gun...? Edited by heron - 04 Dec 2012 at 9:34pm |
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Ray54
Orange Level Access Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Paso Robles, Ca Points: 4498 |
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Sounds like you have a really nice machine there.Have always run 85-140 gear oil in my transmission.As for the filters Cokes picture looks like what was original,but was thinking the number was CP4 but I do know was the same as Ford 8n tractor.The primary fuel filter is the same as oil unless it has been changed. The secondary fuel filter was originally a sock type,but after looking I think Fram C1173PL is what I have been using.Bin lucky and have not had much water in that ones tank lately.If you have 45 PSI leave it alone,just drain water from tank before each us if not used often.Also have always used a lite grease in the rollers rather than oil.If they are OEM rollers they have a bearing rather than a bushing, so it is better to have the tool pump new clean grease into the bearing.Don't know were you would find a new one though.Any non foaming oil will work for hydraulics.
For a cheap seat a piece of 3/4 plywood, foam from old sofa or mattress,some heavy canvas or vinyl and a staple gun, fold like raping a package. And as Coke said for arm rests.Gauges are generic until you get to the restoration,any mechanical from auto parts store. If it is important the old can be rebuilt,but something like $500 a pop.As for the battery here everyone uses one 12 volt.I used the pulley from the generator on the alternator when I changed. Under stand how you feel about this tractor as I would like to get my grandfather's first tractor.Ninety year old aunt by marriage will not sell so far.Her grand kids will likely cut it up for scrape.Good luck with your project. Ray |
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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Thanks for the reply Ray!
Got the dozer delivered today. Spent most of the day running around and ended on a bad note. The fuel filter on the side of the machine was disconnected by my day 35 years ago b/c it would lose prime unless he kept the tank full which he didn't b/c it was never used regularly after 1962. Then I went to check the "only" little fuel filter on the machine and it was LOADED with junk. I cannot believe the machine runs sooo well. But the issue is not only that but the filter does not sit evenly on the bottom of the housing and the manual I have shows the little cup and washers going on the bottom of the filter yet they were installed on the top of the filter with a little square piece of metal holding the filter down. There is NO way the filter can do it's job the way it's been installed for over 4 decades..at least. One idler is stuck..my dad said they put too many shims in it years ago and it seems they have frozen up. The track adjustors look like there is no way they will move although I've coated them with PB blaster. The final drives leak, one piston is leaking and the tranny feels sloppy when shifting although engages well. So now I'm looking at adding a Napa 4770 filter head and a cat fuel filter. I'm waiting for a new oil filter from Napa. Coolant is drained and I need a new cap for the radiator....ANY IDEAS on that? I'll probably pull the generator after I get some work done with it and have it rebuilt. I bought a seat from Tractor supply that will raise the operator up a little bit. My plan is to cut a piece of 3/4" Advantek, put that on the base in the rails screw the seat to it and cover the battery trays with diamond plate. Down the road I'll look at doing things more original when I have the time. I do have the 85/140 for the final drives ready to go and once I get it hot I'll drop the tranny fluid and put GL1 mineral oil 90wt in it. Are the guages difficult to install as far as sending units fitting, things stripping out? I'd really like to have a temp guage.. :) Edited by heron - 06 Dec 2012 at 8:50pm |
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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Ray, forgot to ask about the rollers...I don't have the stem/nozzle for the rollers as my dad has misplaced it. :((
Any idea what to use to put oil in the rollers since it probably has not been done since 1962. I've got tubes of corn head grease on the way(8) that go into a grease gun. I also found a 000 grease/oil today, old stock from this lube company but we couldn't figure out how to pump it in to the rollers without spending $200 on a pump that would fit the 5 gallon pail and pump something like that. |
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Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41549 |
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That cup belongs on the bottom of the filter and the top of the filter presses against the top casting to seal.
That Fram C 3 filter is what I use to be able to get easily at Farm Supply store - Chrysler product oil filter. I used it both on fuel and on oil . Those PH8A filters in the other picture are the bracket I made up to use spin on filters now. That other white filter material in 10 Micron filter tubes that I cut down to make 2 filters for the one on engine , use them rather than the honeycomb woven filters as had a problem finding them. (Some oil burner guns use them ) For the rollers the GL1 should work also to fill them . Be sure to clean out the cup on the air cleaner - it is a oil bath unit and you will probably find the cup full of dirt . A #30 engine oil or that hydraulic oil will work fine there . Clean out pre-cleaner cup also. A sloppy shift lever has a couple problems and can be fixed. If you remover the boot over shift tower then the 2 - 15/16 head bolts on each side the shifting lever will lift out of case. Inside you will find a bushing and a pin which attach to the shift pin which has a ball end. That cross pin wears or breaks, the bushing wears, and the bolts which have a turned end wear. I made up a new bushing , new bolts with longer reach, new cross pin which is larger size and ground 2 flats into it . The hole for the cross pin in the shift pin were fitted to new cross pin size. So now the bolts reach the cross pin and keep it from moving and tension on pin is set by shims under bolt heads. I welded up the ball end and ground back so it fits tighter into shift rails. Lever now moves side to side for gear selection, and fwd and back - but no slop in other directions or turning to jump out of rails.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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heron
Silver Level Joined: 01 Dec 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Points: 109 |
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Yes, I just spoke to my dad and he swears he never put it in that way...must have been a senior moment. Anyway the cup is still on top as the spring is missing also that goes on the bottom...probably why someone installed it wrong back in the say...they must have lost the spring.
I may just get a Napa 4770 filter head and run a large cat filter on it. The Primary filter and parts are gone and my dad does not remember where he put the parts. Question is if does the filter head have to be level with the bottom of the fuel tank? If it does can I run a small lift pump to help keep pressure in the system..only about 3-4psi. The oil filter; where can I cut and mount a filter head for that? I would like to eliminate the old large one on the left side of the machine and use an updated better filter. On the rollers; how can I fill them if I don't use the corn head grease? Can I use a funnel with a flexible tube? Will the rollers take about a cartridge of grease each if I use the corn head? Great advice on the shifter. I don't have any way to weld or fab something up so I'll see what I can do b/c it definitely needs help. Also good advice on the air filter as my order is air, fuel, oil, coolant, transmission, hydraulic tank cleaned, rollers, working temp guage, seals on piston(?). seat, generator... All gems of experience with these things are welcome. I don't mind doing the work...I actually miss it but I hate having to figure things out when I still don't have the right manuals(dad is sending them) and I'm fixing things that should never have been let go! What year machines do you all have? The online manual I have been using is not accurate and Allis didn't seem to make a differing year manual...? This machine was produced at the end of the HD5 series. Edited by heron - 06 Dec 2012 at 10:27pm |
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JohnCO
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niwot Colo Points: 8992 |
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You should be able to get any filters for it at a NAPA store or a parts place that sells WIX as wix makes filters for NAPA. I'm sure you could get the JD corn head grease on line from JD, if not from a dealer. Could be Case NH or AGCO has a similar greas/oil for their corn heads.
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