Finally got my WC, some assembly required......

The looseness of the steering wheel is just from wear in the steering box, probably. I have been told that they can be adjusted, but then you mess up the wear pattern and it binds, so it is just better to leave it how it is. JMHO..

flip it over, you will  need to take the reverse lockout mechanism and spring off before it will come out.  fun to do with rails and forks on

Edited by CAL(KS) - 13 May 2016 at 10:13am

Marv if you ever do take the shift rails out of the shifter top be VERY CAREFULL of the detent balls as they can come flying out at warp speed due to the fact that they are under spring tension.

Well, the u-joint has a little play, and actually the pin that holds the yoke on has a little play too. Haven't looked into the pedestal itself yet.

I hope to pressure wash the entire chassis and bring it in the garage sometime in the next few weeks. Garage has been rather busy. Two weeks ago, block garage sale. One week ago, painted the topper for the truck. This weekend, Courtney's birthday party. Next two weekends, camping. Every weekday, work all day, pick up kids, do homework, make supper, then at least one sporting event if not two. I don't know how we got so busy, but I sneak in a little tractor tinkering here and there.

This is a great post. I hope it inspires me to get back on mine. The steering was very loose on mine. The biggest problem was the keyway in the bottom of the main shaft where the spindle block goes was wore bad. I finally bought another used pedistal and used the best parts from each. I was able to get bearings and races through NAPA. Keep up the good work and thanks for taking the time to share pics with us when time is so valuable.

look at that wide foot plate in the middle looking good i just got mine done

Edited by patrickmull - 03 Jun 2016 at 5:45am

patrickmull wrote: look at that wide foot plate in the middle looking good i just got mine done

What is the tank and platform on the front used for? I haven't seen anything like that and as far as it hangs out in front it must have a good purpose.

wc should have the felt or cork whatever it was and wd and up have a rubber lip seal.  both numbers are listed in the agco parts book.  if i remember correctly the seal is clamped between the  thin sleeve and bellhousing.  when we put a starter bellhousing on my brothers 38 we used a wd bellhousing and seal holder.

So you don't use the normal gas tank? Just curious.   Thought it might be a weight bracket of some kind.

When I bought my seal from Sandy Lake it was felt, if you take the AGCO part number it crosses out to a rubber seal, I'd call the folks at Sandy Lake and ask them.
By my parts book and all my pictures, you should have the felt seal in the recess, the seal retainer over it (the piece in my above pic) and the throwout bearing tube bolting down and holding it all in place.

That is comming along nice. You will be driving it around before you know it. Nicely done.

Roll pins work well. I also ran safety wire through the pins just in case they decided to move. 

now you can put a small hose on the shop vac an sure get it all out' works good

Sorry fellows, been pretty busy with life in general. Going to Hutch last weekend was just the kick I needed to get back on task here.

Slow progress....

The radiator turned into a bit of a struggle. Turns out the bottom tank had a crack in it. I took it to the local radiator shop for repair. He said he could repair it no problem. Over a few weeks, he called me once a week and every week his tone got lower and lower. Finally, he said come and get it, I can't fix it, its crammed full of sealer and all the seams are leaking, its junk. Luckily, in the meantime, I caught wind of a fellow who repairs radiators on the weekends and can fix just about anything, especially ones the first guy said are beyond repair. So, I went and picked it up from the first guy (and paid way too much for nothing) and took it to the second guy. He fixed the radiator, put all the shrouds back on that the first guy chopped off, flow tested it, and painted the core, all for 1/3 what I paid the first guy to do nothing.

Lesson learned.

Brought the tractor back inside. Made some rubber pads for the radiator mount. Installed the fuel tank, radiator, and hood.

I picked up a few pieces at Hutch- cultivator brackets (no reason other than they were only $5) brake covers with the bolt holes not broken off, and a dandy grill screen. Couldn't find just the seat back though.


Starting to look like a tractor again!




Just need to rebuild the mag, and polish off the three dozen little things that pop up on these projects, and we should be in tall cotton!


Couple of questions:

What is the recommended spark plug for this engine?

Is there anything between the fuel tank and the supports, or the hood and radiator, or is it steel on steel? The bolts on all the straps are barely long enough the way it is, I cant imagine there's room for a rubber or leather strap under there.


More to come.....



Edited by littlemarv - 25 Aug 2017 at 10:53pm

There is usually a webbing between the hood and fuel tank. Something like this, in one of the colors/widths that it comes in......someone else might know what width/color it was originally.  Fuel Tank Webbing - White 1"