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FB 20 24 forklift help

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spitfire_er View Drop Down
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Joined: 01 Jan 2024
Location: Mn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spitfire_er Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2024 at 9:29am
Thanks, I do believe that is correct. It does look exactly like a waukesha engine. I will have to pull the head again and check the valves. I'm not sure how to turn it by hand outside of spinning the flywheel with prybar. There is a pump mounted on the front. Maybe since it's loose from yesterday I can spin the pulley by hand. I'll try and look later today and mess with it.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2024 at 12:06pm
Before you pull the head off again, take the spark plugs out and try to turn the pulley.. If it does rotate and you think its the starter motor, you save a step.. If it wont turn, then take off the head...... if your SURE that pump on the front is not locked up ??
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spitfire_er Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 2024 at 11:47pm
Worked on it today a little. My neighbor is a former motor repair guy that had a shop in town for many years. He looked the starter over and said it looked good and seemed to work just fine after I cleaned it up.

While the starter was off I was able to spin the motor with a prybar on the flywheel. I turned it a couple revolutions. I did notice a couple tight spots but I backed off and spun it back and after a couple of those, I was able to turn it over via the belt and pulley and it spun freely.

I'm at the point now to where I'm going tonreplace both battery cables because both leads have bad corrosion just after the clamps with some fraying of the wires.

It is also written "+ positive ground" under the engine cover in a sharpie. I was able to get it to spin the engine a couple times jumping direct to the starter.

Getting closer. I think I'm ready for a propane tank which I don't have yet.

I also believe my brand new $150 battery didn't have a good charge. I charged it for an hour and it spun the starter. It's charging overnight.

Edited by spitfire_er - 01 Feb 2024 at 11:49pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2024 at 4:17am
Before you get the propane, check the carborator.  On propane carbs, there is a little atmospheric pressure sensing thingie (forget what it's called) that the mud dubbers and hole spiders love to stuff fulla mud, at least around here.  If that thingie is blocked, carb no workie...Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spitfire_er Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 2024 at 5:46pm
Well, finally figured it out. I ended up fully charging the battery, new batt cables and got same issue. The. Tried to jump from the back side of solenoid and nothing. Took off the the 0 Gauge wire from selonoid to starter and made up a new 4 Guage. Popped off w/o hesitation.

Was that wire the whole time!

Now I need to replace the water hose from the engine to the LP thing, wait for my new tank to arrive and hopefully get it at least running this next week.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 2024 at 6:42pm
GREAT !!!.... a good set of HEAVY cables is a MUST on a 6v system... The 4 gauge will work when new, but long term, you should get a couple NEW CABLES.. HEAVY DUTY !!

Of course your only talking about a 60 cubic inch motor spread out over 4 cylinders... and probably not very high compression ratio.... You may not need the REAL HEAVY.. but would be nice to have #2  all the way around..... with NEW ends and clean GROUND.


Edited by steve(ill) - 03 Feb 2024 at 6:45pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 9:46am
The 'propane thingy' that has water hoses going to it, is an 'evaporator'.  It provides heat to help make the liquid propane want to become vapor.

Take a soft bristle brush and scrub off the surfaces of the fuel system components.  You'll find under there brand and model names, possibly model type serial numbers.  You'll probably also find plenty of dirt over the breather vents and such.  Take photos of the identification.

The original evaporator for that vintage could have been by several major manufacturers, Ensign was one of the most prolific then.  Beam, Garretson, Zenith, Algas, Hoof, Rego, Impco... and probably a half dozen others I've missed.

Propane fuel system needs the following steps:

- Storage (tank)
 - Withdrawl Wethod (liquid or vapor).  Mobile equipment, using small tanks need to be vapor withdrawl, stationary systems with large tanks are usually fine with vapor

Fuel lockoff-  a method of shutting off fuel supply in the event that the engine isn't running.  Lockoff is different from 'cutoff', which is a function of the fuel metering system.

Evaporation - Vaporous systems don't need an evaporator, but liquid withdrawl does.  MOST evaporators use engine heat to warm the liquid and improve evap, as unevaporated liquid going into low pressure devices is really, really bad.

First stage regulation- drops tank pressure from whatever it happens to be, to either 10psi, 5psi, or 2psi

Second stage regulation - drops first stage pressure from 10/5/ or 2 to 11" water column (around 0.4 psi)

Fuel supply hand valve - on stationary engines, always place a fuel supply hand valve just before the fuel controller.

Fuel controller, aka 'zero governor' aka 'demand regulator' aka 'negative pressure regulator'.  The function of this device is to accept gaseous fuel at 11" water column, and 'meter' it to the engine based on engine DEMAND.  it is a mechanically proportional device, that has two other extremely important functions:  When the engine is stopped, it must be sensitive enough to totally CUT OFF fuel flow... and when the engine is CRANKING, it must be sensitive enough to respond and allow fuel into the airstream.  They are henceforth, devices that must be treated with delicate care.

LOAD Block, aka 'power valve' is an adjustable orfice located between the fuel controller and the demand point (the mixer) which limits the maximum fuel flow possible under full load.  The piping between the fuel controller to the load block needs to be as short as possible, and unrestrictive, so that the load block performs properly AND the engine is responsive to load.

The 'spud'... an orfice which is located at the 'demand point' of a venturi... it is located in the divergent edge of a venturi, and airflow through the venturi generates negative pressure which draws gaseous fuel from the fuel controller, through the metering block, into the intake airstream.  As airstream velocity increases, spud pressure at that demand point falls lower, demanding more fuel from the fuel controller.

Mixer - The mixer is a gaseous equivalent of a 'carbeurator', but it isn't a 'carbeurator', because it is not accepting and metering a liquid, it is simply mixing gaseous fuel with incoming air.  The mixer can be a part that stands alone, with a venturi and spud, or it can be a liquid carbeurator that has been fitted with an additional spud point to be added as an option.  A mixer can also be a secondary venturi with a spud, that is placed either between a manifold and carb, or between the carb and air filter.

Hopefully this will make it easier for you to identify the components in your forklift.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spitfire_er Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2024 at 3:17pm
Back at it. I got it spinning. New plugs and wires. Spark appears correct.

Will sputter with ether but looks like I'm not getting LP past ether the selonoid shutoff valve just before the vaporizer or nothing through the vaporizer.

Not sure what the shutoff is called or where to get it, but I'm looking right after this. The vap. Is an Ensign RDG 55A3. Not sure what. The sellonoid thing is.

Edit: Just checked the shutoff and it appears to be working. Smelled lp when I took it apart too.

Also, it is low on coolant and I didn't want to fill it till I got it running. Does the coolant provide any vacuum? Could that be why it's not working?

Guessing the vaporizer is bad or leaking. Wonder if I can just replace it with a new one?


Edited by spitfire_er - 11 Feb 2024 at 4:28pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spitfire_er Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb 2024 at 5:33pm
I tried dumping some gas down the carb and it sputtered.

Got me to thinking about the direction of the distributor and if it's running CW or CCW. Found the main problem!

I had it set to fire running CW. Distributor runs CCW. Firing order 1-2-4-3. Swapped 2 and 3 and it ran for a minute.

Put the vaporizer back on and got it running for several minutes on propane.

Looks like I have a pretty severe head gasket leak though. Plugs were all wet.

Couldn't get it running after shutting it off and trying to restart it in an hour.

I think I'm at the point of selling it. While I think its cool, it's not going to work for what I need. I should have somone coming Friday to buy it and I will be looking for another one, hopefully a little newer.

I will be putting up a video on YouTube once I get it all edited. Was a lot of footage to edit.

Edited by spitfire_er - 13 Feb 2024 at 5:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spitfire_er Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2024 at 8:55pm
Got it running better. Had a bad head gasket leak. Olson's gaskets had a NOS one so got it replaced.
Here's a couple videos I did on getting it going.
https://youtu.be/XlYs_THg_eM

And head gasket replacement.
https://youtu.be/Rptskq-Tank

I ordered a brake master that should be here Thursday ro see if I can get those going.

The mast cylinder leaks and not sure I want to fix it, but not sure if I can get a gasket set for it ether. Never done one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2024 at 9:13pm
So have you decided to keep it ??  Looks like you got a lot of the HARD stuff done... Everything that is "OLD" and "GOOD PRICE" is going to have a variety of problems... as you have seen..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spitfire_er Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2024 at 12:23pm
I have a guy coming tonight to look at it. I don't mind spending a little more to get a little nicer machine. I can't have oil dripping on my floors and I need pneumatic tires as well. I do have a brake master coming but not sure I'll get to that part of it. I haven't looked at the brakes, but it will need the master regardless. It also has the hand brake which just needs The broken cable hooked back up.
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