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steve(ill) 
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 Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 9:14pm |
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generators fall in the same catagory as filters (for NECESSITY.)... Many old tractors with bad generators just charge the battery with a shop charger once a week... Generator is used to adjust fan belt only. ............ thats a possibility for now.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 9:10pm |
voltage regulators look something like this... Clean the terminals and maybe you can see a letter on each. Probably in this order anyway.
while running, if you GROUND the "F" terminal , you should see higher voltage at the "A" or "GEN" terminal .........if the regulator is working, you will see the charge at the "Bat" terminal also.
the system can be NEGATIVE or POSITIVE GROUND... From the Factory it was 6 v POSITIVE GROUND.
Edited by steve(ill) - 01 Sep 2022 at 9:11pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 9:03pm |
I changed the oil and it still has good pressure. It smokes very bad but it’s clearing up more as it runs. I filled the radiator and there’s a bunch of gummy oily stuff in it so I’m going to have to flush it out, not a big deal. I tested the voltage and it is not charging it’s staying around 6.3/6.2 volts. a terminal on the voltage regular is not hooked up but I’m not sure what each terminal does 
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 8:23pm |
Change the oil out first chance you get and you would be good for YEARS... The filter system is nice to have, but not a necessity..... Normally the pressure is around the O or R with good viscosity oil and cool temps.. As it warms up it might drop a little..
Right now you are in GREAT SHAPE !!!
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84 prospector
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 7:41pm |
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Should I be ok to run it like this for a few weeks until I can get a correct housing or do something about this filter system that is on it?
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84 prospector
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 7:39pm |
I bypassed the filter and have good pressure. 
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Tbone95
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 6:48pm |
 steve(ill) wrote:
No... you would have no idea what amount to use... if you insist on using the auto type filter, plug up a fitting and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 inch hole in it........ Or use a valve like the fuel pet cock and restrict the flow ...........
Personally i would SCRAP the auto filter and use NOTHING if i was not going to install the original.
Did you cap the drain line and rerun the pressure test ???
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Start with the 1/16. You can make a 1/16 hole 1/8, but not the other way. 1/8 will flow basically 4x the flow as 1/16, which in your case you’re trying to restrict that flow.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 4:28pm |
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No I haven’t been home yet, few hours I’ll try that.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 4:25pm |
No... you would have no idea what amount to use... if you insist on using the auto type filter, plug up a fitting and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 inch hole in it........ Or use a valve like the fuel pet cock and restrict the flow ...........
Personally i would SCRAP the auto filter and use NOTHING if i was not going to install the original.
Did you cap the drain line and rerun the pressure test ???
Edited by steve(ill) - 01 Sep 2022 at 4:25pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 4:20pm |
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For now could I pack cotton swabs or something in the middle of the filter to restrict the flow?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 4:14pm |
needs a little cleanup and a new filter...
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Dick L
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 4:03pm |
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Let me look around. I would bet my price would be quite a bit lower than you will find anywhere else.. You would need to buy a new filter if you decide to try my deals.
Edited by Dick L - 01 Sep 2022 at 4:06pm
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PaulB
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 7:13am |
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Truthfully $90 for the oil filter base, gauge, filter, oil line and all the fittings is not far off from what it should be. I regularly get $50 just for a good base with the filter tube in it. I have plenty of them available. New FRAM 159 filters are going for close to $20 anywhere. The oil line is unique to the Allis Chalmers BE/CE and not available anywhere except for used or maybe NOS. A new aftermarket gauge will cost more than $30 and good used OEM one will fetch $25 easily.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 7:05am |
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as Les said, you need to restrict the oil flow thru the filter so that only 15% of the total goes that way.. The ORIGINAL filter does that internally with its cotton construction..An auto filter has NO RESTRICTION so it wall pass MAX FLOW... An aftermarket filter could work if you had an orifice... If your restricting 10%- 15%- 20%... its not that important.. The idea is to maintain PRESSURE on the gauge and still have EXTRA oil that you can run thru the filter... You could use a needle valve and only crack it a turn open, then lock in place.... But if you want a clean, more original look ... go with the factory filter.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 6:41am |
steve(ill) wrote:
There is no need to use a screw driver unless you bought an old tractor / truck and the original owner put it in with a breaker bar !!.... Filters that i have put on, i can take off with an 8 inch long filter wrench..
The tractor only puts out about 15 psi max.. You might only have 10 psi on an old motor.. You dont have a lot of flow either... If your careful taking the filter off, you can check the tube and crank to check flow, then reinstall the OLD FILTER.. It really dont do much anyway since it is a BYPASS... you can install NEW at a later date when you do the oil. |
But there sometimes is a need. I don't know what the heck happened to my buddy's car back in the day.....it wasn't an old car, and wasn't like the oil had never been changed, and once the dang filter finally came off, the new one went on so it was not cross threaded  But that sucker fought tooth and nail!
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 6:37am |
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You can use this filter setup if you put in a restriction ahead of the filter.
I would suggest an orifice no bigger than 1/16" to start with.
Edited by Les Kerf - 01 Sep 2022 at 6:39am
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84 prospector
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 11:06pm |
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Ok I will try that tomorrow. Do they make filters that can screw on it that would have enough restriction?
Edited by 84 prospector - 31 Aug 2022 at 11:56pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 10:44pm |
Yes... you can basically run FOREVER without the filter... There are a lot of smaller gasoline engines that never had oil filters.. Would be a good idea to put NEW OIL in it, ( in the near future).. that is CLEAN and does not need a filter.
The hole in the block just drains into the pan..( there is a little puddle / dam inside that forms overflow into the pan).... There should be a tapped hole on each side of it.. Just bolt a small sheet metal plate over the hole.... Even a piece of duct tape might be OK for a test.
Edited by steve(ill) - 31 Aug 2022 at 10:50pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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84 prospector
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 10:41pm |
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Does that hole in the side of the block that the oil is returning through just go straight to the pan?
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84 prospector
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 10:31pm |
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Ok now that makes sense, it’s just pushing All the oil straight through that filter because it’s not a bypass and back into the block. It will be safe to run it for a few days with the small oil line going to the filter blocked off with the gauge?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 10:27pm |
So just to be clear I can’t use the filter setup that is on it? Is the system now going to be starving it of oil?
Yes, that filter is 100% of your problem.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 10:23pm |
Look at my picture... the oil comes from the bell housing TEE into the bottom of the filter... about 15% of the oil is DUMPED TO SUMP thru that 1/2 inch hole in the side of the block.... You are dumping WAY TOO MUCH Oil back to the sump with that wrong filter..
Plug the BIG STEEL PIPE out of the filter and put the gauge there... Eliminate the line INTO THE BLOCK...
Or just put the gauge on the curved steel tube going INTO the filter, and eliminate the filter / STEEL PIPE drain and all.
Edited by steve(ill) - 31 Aug 2022 at 10:28pm
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84 prospector
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 10:14pm |
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The tee that the gauge is connected to and the line coming from the filter on it is in a port on the side of the block. Where does the oil actually come out of the block from? The small tee with the small line that is connected to the filter? Or from the bigger tee on the side with the gauge and the bigger line?
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84 prospector
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 9:39pm |
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So just to be clear I can’t use the filter setup that is on it? Is the system now going to be starving it of oil? I am new to this type of oil system and know nothing of it
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 9:07pm |
I looked on e-bay for "allis oil filter housing" and came up with this.. It mounts to the engine block with two bolts and the oil drains into the block thru the center hole... The guy wants $90. ........ dont think i would pay that.. Again, you can run quite some time with NO FILTER... just plug the line.... see if you have pressure from the pump to gauge.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 9:00pm |
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again, the big question right now is where does the OIL OUT of the filter ( that 1/4 inch steel pipe) where does it go ( besides the gauge).... is it dumping back to sump thru the 1/2 inch hole in the side of the block ???? Thats where ALL of your oil is going.
Edited by steve(ill) - 31 Aug 2022 at 9:28pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 8:58pm |
Yes, that is your problem.... The factory TEE above the bell housing has a tube running to the filter... the OUTLET of your filter goes to the GAUGE and where else ? I can not tell what the steel pipe / tee / gauge are all connected to.
Lets look at how the system works... The pump pushes oil down a hollow cam shaft. The Shaft has holes it it and oil is sprayed at the piston / rods / bearings for lube...... about 85% of the oil goes down the hollow cam shaft.... About 15% of the oil comes out of the top TEE on the bell housing and goes to the filter... The original filter cleans that 15%, then DUMPS the oil back to sump thru a hole in the block ( about 1/2 inch diameter), behind the filter.....
You have an automotive filter that cleans the oil, then "normally" sends the oil to the bearings... Where does the OUTLET of your filter go ???
Look at my photo below.. Right now, you can take the steel tube running from the TEE to the filter inlet and remove it... Put the gauge on the end of the line so you can see the pressure INSIDE THE PUMP AND CAM SHAFT... You dont need to DUMP OIL BACK TO SUMP thru the filter... You can run without the filter for now.
Prove the system works, then you can buy the plate that bolts to the motor that has the correct filter mount ... and a new filter... and you will be OK long term..... Just FORGET the filter for now and see what you have..
If the auto motive filter OUTLET pipe is dumping back to sump thru the block, then just remove the filter outlet steel pipe and PLUG IT and reinstall the filter.. You dont want oil going THRU that filter..
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sparky
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 8:46pm |
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Putting it back original is where I’d start to find oil pressure.
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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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84 prospector
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 8:38pm |
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Is that filter system the reason it doesn’t have pressure?
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sparky
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Posted: 31 Aug 2022 at 8:33pm |
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Someone really cobbled that up. You need to get the correct filter housing,gasket, lines, standpipe and filter and I think then you’ll be back in business.
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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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