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Pusher 
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Joined: 04 Jul 2023
Location: Victoria aus
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 Topic: AC 45 grader power steering
Posted: 17 Jul 2023 at 5:48am |
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hi all, I’m trying to find out how to remove the power steering units for repair from the front of my ac forty five grader, can’t find any workshop details showing how to get them out. If there is anyone who knows how, it would be appreciated. Cheers michael
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Ian Beale
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Joined: 03 Oct 2011
Location: New South Wales
Points: 934
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Posted: 17 Jul 2023 at 10:43pm |
You've got to split the nose and get room to pull the steering unit. I did it about 10 years ago so this is IIRC. The grader is away ATM so I will do a reminder walk around when I get to it today or tomorrow.
You need to stabilise the front axle assembly. I left the moulboard frame connected and blocked the wheels . Then jacked the frame with the blade lifts.
You have to disconnect the shaft from the steering wheel and the hydraulic lines - inside the main frame tube, so small hands help. Getting the shafts loose could well be "interesting". Ours has been "farmerised" with hydraulic wheel lean so I'm not sure if you will have to do any disconnecting in that section.
When re-assembling I used a couple of steel rods to help line up the frame and the nose cone.
Most of the bearings were available when I did ours. My local supplier had an ancient bearing manual that went from Allis part number to modern bearings. I had to make the brass bush for the output shaft. IIRC I posted the bearing numbers way back then (about 2012).
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Pusher
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Posted: 18 Jul 2023 at 1:07am |
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Thanks Ian, that's exactly what I needed to know, have 1 or more oil leaks from within there, hard to see, but at least i know i have to split it now, it would have been a shame to split it and then find out i didn't need to. it is an old country road board grader, needs lots of clean up and seals, but can be driven and worked, just would like to make it easy to start and use, I enjoy the tinkering, we have a couple of km of drive on farm and stock lanes also, so both hobby and usable is good. cheers michael l.
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Ian Beale
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Posted: 18 Jul 2023 at 3:25am |
Michael
I did the supplement round past the grader this afternoon.
Only things extra I'd mention before you split it are -
If you are chasing oil leaks there ought to be a fair chance it will be hoses. I don't remember anything on the box itself that should leak. You can get at the top end of the box supply and return hoses through the hole in the main frame.
IIRC you can get at some hose connections through the hole in the front of the lower casting. I must have disconnected the power steer cylinder hoses from the box there, but I'm not sure if you can get the hoses totally uncoupled through there. Worth a look though - you may have to invent a couple of spanners.
If you have to take the box out you obviously have to get the steering arm off the shaft. Wasn't a problem in my case as someone in there previous had used a pot metal washer as a spacer. That did for tension about what you'd imagine and I had to rebuild the spline.
Have the blade at right angles to the frame before you start winding the frame up to help keep things lined up at the front
And the wheels about straight ahead.
Happy fixing
Ian
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Pusher
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Posted: 18 Jul 2023 at 6:14am |
Ian thanks again I hear what your saying and have checked hoses look good and feel dry, the bulk of the leak which is strong dripping even when not running seem to be with the valve assembly area thinking drive shaft seal or connection to the gear drive. Your thoughts have got me thinking to take out the steering shaft connection and top hoses if I can because then I could see the top of the steering units better might be a simple fix before breaking apart, but then I might dreaming…… worth a try. Cheers Michael L. Ps have I seen you on other forums. I have TD9, case 1000d and 50s white trucks wc series.
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Ian Beale
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Posted: 19 Jul 2023 at 2:57am |
I didn't get into the valve assembly at all - I needed the main shaft out to fix the splines.
If you were really lucky it could be a somewhat loose hose connection on the box. Or a bad O-ring in one of the jumper pipe fittings.
Note I said "Really lucky"
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Posted: 19 Jul 2023 at 6:11am |
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cheers fingers crossssedll I will have a serious look into it this weekend.
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Pusher
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Posted: 16 Dec 2023 at 7:59pm |
just have some time thought I might update. All good now. 1 leak was damaged power steering shaft to steering wheel uni shaft, first seal failed, went again with small speedy sleeve and another seal a little higher pressure seal. Success. Run for maybe 10 hours now no leak. 2nd leak was little steering ram rod seal, was getting ready to pull the lot when parts manual looked like it was packing and nut, and guess what a manufactures slot in the right location for a big spanner to tighten nut and packing. Bonus !!! Now no leaks and good power steering. Cheers michael
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Ian Beale
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Posted: 17 Dec 2023 at 2:25am |
When you put up your question I thought "I could be the last person to do that in the last 10 years or so". So glad there is now shared experience on the board!
Thanks for the update and good that you got it sorted.
Not the sort of job you'd like to have to do regularly - like more than once or twice in a lifetime. But we who have more time than money would grumble and do it maybe a bit more.
Glad that they learned with later ones where the whole steer unit is out in the open at the top. May the "fixers group" grabbed one of the "designer group" and made him work on one?
Later - another "special hole" -
You know what a pain it is greasing the PTO shaft universals?
On the LHS front of the cab floor there is a raised rectangular bit. On the outside back corner there is a square hole. And, if you align the front universal "just so" you can get a grease gun on the nipple through that hole.
Found by accident - not in the manual I've got.
Edited by Ian Beale - 17 Dec 2023 at 2:36am
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